Nikolatesla

Just a heads up for anybody with hidden air filters.

This is what i found when checking the hidden airfilter on my m25y .

I have 2 of these motors one with 50 hours and on with 10 . They are both the same age and both had the broken up filter which was ingested into the engine.

Its ironic that the air filter itself created a filter problem.

This allows the degraded air filter element  to be sucked into the engine bit by bit. The trouble is that it is not easily visible and i only found it by accident.

It may be common to other air boxes

I replaced it with a more simple filter  as pictured .

other than this problem these engines seem flawless.

I personally don't ever fly in our motorised garden chairs with high energy battery power that could go wrong .

But if you must ,find a place where the battery pack can burn and not be life threatening . A firewall of bespoke design is the best you can do . I don't fly a paramotor but off to one side shielded from the fueltank.?

I change mine just before I fly where out landing is sub-optimal

Hi all ,

My first post here

I'm a nanotrike self builder and a bit of a tech geek . Most of our issues are the same except I have a hanglider wing rather than a canopy above my head.

I use the m25y pull start version and am very happy with it . I'm from down under if that is relevant and mostly fly alone (dont we all anyway?)

A point of interest . When I first flew the black devil I complained to alex and a few others that it was vibrating way too much . I changed anything including the prop is search of the problem.  Magically after about 10 hours use it cleared up and I realized that the motor was simply tight when new . It has been great ever since and the performance on a nano trike /hanglider is excellent 1.3 litres per hour if I fly nice . Usually coastal runs with a bit of lift . I still cant believe how little fuel i use but it is a high performance hang glider ..that might be it .

There has been lots of great help here over the years regarding motor,fuel, electrics and I can perhaps contribute with my current ambition to create a charging source for my trike which has a few instruments . Fuel gauge , cht, egt,gps,which rely on a 11.1 volt bank of lipos.

If i forget to switch off the battery goes flat in 3 hours. And I don't like lipos and their risks  in a flying machine

I tried to wind some extra windings on my black devil ignition coil with not much success and its not wise to steal power from the ignition area in any case .

My current approach is to mount some magnets (2 pairs) on the  drive pulley cooler ring , I don't know what it is called or its purpose other than cooling for the pulley.

Perhaps this has been tried before but I could not find any reference.

I'm taking a powdered iron torroid about 40mm across and 10mm thick and cutting a 12mm section out ,then mounting it solidly to the crankcase bolts allowing the magnets to pass thru the gap creating an ac voltage which will be rectified and regulated .

The magnets are 20mm diameter  and 3mm thick with a hole in the middle, 2 each side bolted to the outer part  aluminum pulley cooler as there is enough space for them to miss the crank case.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003446576688.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.11251802uLm1xg

The holes need to be exact and the magnets will have to be exact weights for perfect balance but I cannot see why it would not work as I only need 1 amp to do the job.

The challenge is to mount it securely to the crankcase where devcon or something may have to be the bulk of it .

I am not a fan of  electric start as my experience with them so far has been problems with quality and needing a dangerous amount of energy on tap.

This may have been tried by others as its rather obvious once one the problem is faced.

Lindsay