Phil_P Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 NB this is just my thoughts, not based on any experience; If it really is just the case of 1mm extra needed, I'd carefully grind it or turn it off the end of crankshaft. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_b Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 NB this is just my thoughts, not based on any experience;If it really is just the case of 1mm extra needed, I'd carefully grind it or turn it off the end of crankshaft. Phil Phil do you think (looking at the bell) that the locating pins for the clutch weights are also catching the bell? I think they are so it would be better to space out the whole thing or you would have to take the same off these and I dont think that would be a good idea due to the retaining circlips, unless there is more metal on the end of these than it looks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spigot Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 This might be a wild stab in the dark but.... It looks to me like the bearing behind the clutch bell is not seated correctly, push that in another 4mm (by the looks of it) and all your spacing worries will be over Colin B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_catalan Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 The clutch is properly sitted so I cannot push it in any further. In regards to grinding the crank shaft 1 mm, sounds simple enough, but I have the same thought as Pete. Maybe it'll solve the crank shaft touching the "bell", but that'll also move the clutch closer to the bell so MAYBE it'll be enough for the clutch to start touching the bell, thus creating another problem. In regards to spacing the whole unit, the 2 options that come to my mind is putting a metal ring on each screw (3 screws) to keep the unit further away by 1 mm, but I think having the remaining part of the unit not touching the engine block may cause added vibrations and could even damage the reduction gear unit. The other option to space the whole unit out is to build a metal gasket of 1 mm width. This is why I want to know if someone had this issue and how it was solved. Grinding the crank shaft sounds like it is the best method as long as it does not cause another problem. I'm sure this problem is not an isolated case. Surely someone who replaced their reduction gear unit, from an older silver one, must have had to solve this problem. Cheers. JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyfreefly Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 I dont get this Why doesnt somebody just ask the manufacturers about this issue Give them a call on the telephone and ask !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_catalan Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 Hi Gary. I wrote to manufacturer before I posted the initial question on this forum. I received no reply. Today, I wrote again. I received a reply from them less than an hour ago. They said grind the crank shaft 1 mm without removing the clutch and its holding nut. So I will follow that advise. Writing on this forum means I can get feedback from others who've had this issue before. It's always good to find out from others who've had the same issue and see how they fixed it and what if any side effects they had as a result of that. Isn't that the spirit of a specialty forum like this one? A big "THANK YOU" to everyone who posted replies on this issue. I appreciate your feedback. Cheers. JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkwing Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 This follow up post is a bit late but I would like to know from those of you who have H&E 120's if you have ever compared them to the PAP 125. I believe the PAP has a bit more power than the H&E but not much more. I also believe that the new PA125 powering the PAPs are made by H&E but push out 2hp more than the R120. The H&E is a LOT more affordable than the PAP but is the quality as good?. I am looking to upgrade from my high hang point machine to a low hang point but worry that these machines I am interested in may not be powerful enough for me. I currently fly the Paratoys MZ 100 but find it a bit underpowered for me if I fly from sites at 2200ft asl. I don't want to go to belt drive as I prefer a clutch so would rather not go the Simonini route. I am quite interested in the Polini THOR as well and it seems to pack quite a punch with the 130cm prop - same thrust figure claimed by the ROS 125 with 125cm propeller. I weigh 82kg by the way. Any suggestions from those who have already compared? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 This follow up post is a bit late but I would like to know from those of you who have H&E 120's if you have ever compared them to the PAP 125. I believe the PAP has a bit more power than the H&E but not much more. I also believe that the new PA125 powering the PAPs are made by H&E but push out 2hp more than the R120. The H&E is a LOT more affordable than the PAP but is the quality as good?. I am looking to upgrade from my high hang point machine to a low hang point but worry that these machines I am interested in may not be powerful enough for me. I currently fly the Paratoys MZ 100 but find it a bit underpowered for me if I fly from sites at 2200ft asl. I don't want to go to belt drive as I prefer a clutch so would rather not go the Simonini route. I am quite interested in the Polini THOR as well and it seems to pack quite a punch with the 130cm prop - same thrust figure claimed by the ROS 125 with 125cm propeller. I weigh 82kg by the way. Any suggestions from those who have already compared? Having owned the PAP Ros and the HE R120, the PAP has a better quality of finish and the harness is more comfortable on the ground (the machine is a bit lighter too), but the HE motor is more reliable (the Ros motor is getting a poor rep and mine didn't last 8months). The HE gearbox maybe weaker, though if you top it up with grease regularly, you shouldn't have a problem (any excess will come out the breather when running). I used to be 80kgs and found them both fine for power with a 26 revo wing, they will both have more power than the MZ100, as you say the Ros has slightly more, but not much. The HE is smoother running, but needs a bar across the cage for launching with much power. At the end of the day, Ya pays ya money and ya makes ya choice, and it's a bit less with the HE! Stuart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_catalan Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 The HE gearbox maybe weaker, though if you top it up with grease regularly, you shouldn't have a problem (any excess will come out the breather when running). Hi. You mention grease. Do you really mean to say grease? The instruction manual for the HE-R120 mentions oil. To be specific it mentions Mouwan Gear 80W90. Where I live I cannot get this exact oil, so I use any gearbox oil rated 80W90. Can you tell me exactly which one you use and what quantity? Also can I use any oil rated at 80W90? My previous gearbox didn't last as much as I would have expected after I started using oil I replenished. Cheers and Thanks. JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 OK, so it seems the newer HE gearboxes are now oil filled, so disregard my comments about the grease. I am sure any type of 80W/90 gear oil will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkwing Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 Thanks for the reply Stuart. So you reckon there is very little difference between the thrust of the ROS 125 and the R 120? I am __VERY__ wary of the ROS since it seems most people I have spoken to who own the engine have had problems - more than most. The new PA125, I believe is made in the H&E factory for PAP but it's not the same engine as the R120 and has about 2hp less. My MZ100 is __VERY__reliable but I am at the top of it's weight range and need a bit more "kick" so I can enjoy the benefits of my Velvet 26 wing. Thanks again for your input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantheman Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 Just a heads up for H&E owners to check for hairline cracks, my exhaust braket had split 1/2 way accross on the bend circled in the pic below: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 So you reckon there is very little difference between the thrust of the ROS 125 and the R 120? Er not quite, the Ros has noticably more power, but it's not enough to significantly cloud your judgment, especially at your weight. IMHO. Stuart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_catalan Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 Just a heads up for H&E owners to check for hairline cracks, my exhaust braket had split 1/2 way accross on the bend circled in the pic below[/img] Hi Dan. Thanks for the tip. I will be in the lookout for that. Fortunately I have spares to change immediately should it happen. Also, looks like your centrifugal clutch had it as well. How did it happen? Cheers. JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantheman Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 How did it happen?Cheers. JC Back in 2008 one of the clutch pins sheared, this was while I was flying and had no noticeable impact until I landed and tried to restart and the pullstart turned the prop, since it would not disengage - anyway got a new one within a few days and all was well again. I suspect being a learner I revved it too many times which puts undue strain on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantheman Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 OK, so it seems the newer HE gearboxes are now oil filled, so disregard my comments about the grease.I am sure any type of 80W/90 gear oil will be fine. Just doing my gearbox now, the old oil looks like sludge, and for reference it's 50ml for those who need to convert the 1.7 fluid ounces of oil thats specified in the manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tj Posted October 3, 2010 Share Posted October 3, 2010 Looks like you've been flying in the Gulf of Mexico! Tj. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantheman Posted January 2, 2011 Share Posted January 2, 2011 Tell you what, I swear my fuel consumption has gone down since I changed the gearbox oil. Prop hub spins nice and freely again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam1988 Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Hi could anyone help me out I've just brought an H&E R80 and was wondering what is the oil to fuel mix used with these and recommended oil for that, and also what oil is needed to top up the clutch with, cheers if anyone can help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch130 Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 You need to mix 40 to 1 petrol oil mix ( Castrol power 1 racing 2 stroke oil ) EP 80 gear oil or car engine oil in the gear box ...with my old HE R80 I used to flush the gear box a few times with clean oil , then drain and put the stated amount in after. I believe it only required 20ml of oil from empty but check with HE paramotors first . If you email them they are quick to respond. My R80 was a nice smooth motor and very reliable but I chose to change it after gaining some experience and my belly required more power. I have an older grease filled 80 gearbox on the shelf if you are ever stuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadianppg Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 I know this is very old but does someone know where i can order a new gearbox for my R120? or the part number? mine throws the oil out of the breather, even after a few oil changes with exactly 50ML 80w90. what could this problem be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LookingUp Posted August 23, 2021 Share Posted August 23, 2021 I used 000 grease when I had my HE. Very minimal seeping. I had also rebuilt with quality bearings and seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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