lukebanks1 Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Hi, Can someone help? I just bought a Vero UV-X4 for £39.99 as a replacement for my Yaesu VX-3R that I lost! I used the 2 pin adapter that I had for the Yaesu that allowed me to connect it to the 2 pin lead from my headset (which worked for the Yaesu). It doesn't work! The PTT button activates but the mic boom doesn't. I've just the rung the guy I bought it from and he said it's wired differently to the Yaesu (but not more than that!). Can anyone advise me on how to get this working. The first pic is of what I think is the original Yaesu pinout with the diagram of my original radio and adaptor below. Below this is the pinout for the new cheap radio. Thanks! Luke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morgy Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Luke if you can get some one to work out witch connection is incorrect then the best way to change it would be inside the head set on the circuit board rather than cutting into the wiring loom. If poss I have had a look at the pin's and the bottom one can not be a four staged pin??? has to be a 3?? Can you open the little box or is it a sealed unit and change the wiring? looks like the ptt and the mic are sperate on the plug thats why is not connecting to the mic. Best thing i can suggest if there is no way of rewiring it is to see if you can get a quick connection socket like the one i have on my peltor's then you can just change to the correct lead for any radio and you can remove the lead when your not using the radio. I can fit it for you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_k Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Hi Luke, I've only just seen this post. Here is what I would try: Buy a 4 pole plug and socket, plus a 1Kohm resistor. Wire up as an adapter like so: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_k Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Any news on your radio operation Luke? Cheers, Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lukebanks1 Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 Hi Alan, Thanks for your reply. My headset has both a 3.5mm pin and 2.5mm pin so does the headset end of your diagram need to be different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_k Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Hi Luke, I was suggesting the above adapter as a second in line, to be used with the two pin to single adapter that you already have, just as a 'prove it will work' without having to chop anything up that you already have. I think you may struggle to find a single pin 4 contact socket, so if you wish I will amend the adapter diagram so you can try it directly from your two pin headset. Cheers, Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lukebanks1 Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 H Alan, Right, well I've bought all the bits this afternoon - found the 4 pole plug and socket in Maplins. I'm going to give it a go in the morning - will keep you posted. Thanks Again! Luke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lukebanks1 Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 On the 4 pole 3.5mm socket I can't make out which terminal is which. There is 1 dot stamped on 1 terminal and on the other 2 there are 3 dots stamped on both? Any ideas on how to tell which is which? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bholleran Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 On the 4 pole 3.5mm socket I can't make out which terminal is which. There is 1 dot stamped on 1 terminal and on the other 2 there are 3 dots stamped on both?Any ideas on how to tell which is which? Thanks I would try a Continuity tester with a multi meter if you have one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_k Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Yes, push the plug in without its cover, then continuity test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trickyh Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 I've just got one of these and it's tiny! But like Luke, I need to make up an adapter cable for my headset. Unfortunately after scouring the net I've been unable to find a definitive diagram for the 4 pole 3.5mm pin outs. Has anyone got one before I contact the vendor? I can buzz out the supplied headphone/mic later but this resistor business might skew my results.. Cheers Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_k Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 On Lukes first post he has the pinout on the bottom diagram. If you have the supplied headphone/mic then you/we can confirm the pin out. Usually the very bottom contact (away from the tip) is the common or ground. If we assume it is then use an ohmmeter and measure the resistances to the other 3 contacts. The speaker contact will read 7-8 ohms or maybe around 15. The mic contact will read probably 1-2 kilohm, you may have to press the PTT to get a reading. The PTT contact will show infinity without PTT and zero ohms when pressed. Hope this helps, Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trickyh Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Thanks for the reply Alan. The third image is indeed the info I needed. Incidentily, I buzzed out the supplied mic/ptt and earpiece and got some odd results, so i'm glad I had the diagram to follow as well. Supplied earpiece Spkr = 32ohms? Mic = Nothing (even when ptt depressed) Ptt = 1-2ohm (when depressed) Grnd = well Grnd So I did not want to wait for CPC to deliver a ready made plug and butcher that, so I decided to butcher the supplied earpiece. For reference the colours are: Ground = Copper coloured wire PTT = Green Mic = Red Speaker = Blue Its a pig to solder, as its a very cheap multicore with some sort of enamelled coating instead of proper plastic insulators, but with lots of careful cleaning it seemed to hold, but only time will tell if it will prove to be reliable ... Test flew it on Sunday, and it all works a treat, but I think i'll make up a nice loom now that I've proved the concept. The CPC lead i'm planning to use is part number: 690272 - LEAD, 3.5MM 4P TO 3X PHONO, 2M £4.06 Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lukebanks1 Posted March 31, 2012 Author Share Posted March 31, 2012 Hi Alan, Both myself and Morgy can't get your plan to work with the original diagram. Can you make the picture even more mikey mouse for us perhaps we've gone wrong somewhere Failing that maybe we could get rid of my original Yaesu adaptor. Thanks for your help. Luke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_k Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 Hi chaps, Sorry to hear you couldn't get the headset to work. The diagram was the simplest thing I thought you could try, the problem is probably not with you're connection skills. The difficulty is combining two functions into one connection, but without knowing exactly how the radio specifies the two functions. Questions: 1) The PTT works when connected directly to ground, will it still work with some(how much) resistance in the line? 2) Is there a voltage on the connection to the microphone, during Rx and Tx? My guess is that a little adapter with 3 or 4 components will be needed to combine the PTT and mic to connect to the headset. This is guesswork at the moment still. It's a bit difficult to develop this at a distance, if you want to send me a radio I can do this a lot easier by measuring the characteristics of the mic and PTT inputs. When this is made to work it could offer a reasonably priced 2m solution? What are you're thoughts about the radio itself? Cheers, Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lukebanks1 Posted April 1, 2012 Author Share Posted April 1, 2012 Hi Alan, If you don't mind it would be great to send you the radio. Can you PM me your address. The radio seems ideal with a good frequency range. It is very similar to my old Yaesu which cost over 4 times as much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trickyh Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 It seems a very good radio for the money. I've only used it the once in anger and heard and transmitted everything. The manual is crap and the menu structure a bit confusing at first (what is it with radio's and scanners and their impossible to follow menu structures??) I like the idea of the built in FM radio... good for when bimbling around then cuts out if you need to transmit. I also made up my replacement loom using the cable and connector from CPC this weekend and alls good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_k Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Do you mean interfacing to your headset? How? Cheers, Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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