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Making a tip mould.


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All,

As an experiment...

I am going to put my Carbon fibre skills into action and make a mould (of the tips) of the New and Old Parajet Compact Blades, and the Macro (pulse type)

This is so that, when the tips get taken off (for whatever reason) I can place the tip mould over the blades and repair it (in the proper way) with ease.

I will simply have to cut each blade back to the same point (the mould can be used for this) and measure in the same amount of resin, polyurethane, and Carbon in to each tip for the repair.

I am going to make the compact (old style) first as I have a load here to repair.

I do know a bit about Carbon, and I know enough to know that the current repair method used by most is not as a Carbon Fibre company would do it for sure. (down to cost of course!) so thats why I am trying this out.

May even get it to the point where you can buy a mould for your prop! with instructions and kit for repair???

SW :D

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Hi Simon

Interested in the tip mould as it's probably a case of when rather than if I'm gonna need it. If you don't manage to mass produce kits for everyone to do their own, at least it will make it easier to do your props or earn some extra cash for fixing other peoples for them.

Hi Si. How are you going about making your mould. What r u using to make it from?

Jeff

Hi Jeff

It might take more than a tip repair to fix your prop!!! :P

Hope you're closer to getting the motor going again?

Ian.

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All,

...May even get it to the point where you can buy a mould for your prop! with instructions and kit for repair???

SW :D

Would be worth adding a cheap fleBay electronic scale to the kit and instruction to balance, as I'd say any repair would need a check and likely re-balance.

Many moons ago... I helped Giles unpack about 50 new Compact props. The spread of 'balance' numbers from props that were made in the same mould was amazing. I think one number was CoG and the other total weight. Some were grouped as close as possible to make matched sets with dots of the same colour.

Cheers

Paul

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I did point this out myself to Gilo.

the key with this is to weigh in the laminates and resin before you produce the blade. Its that simple. (when making a new set)

They hand made them and did not weigh the resin or fabric before production hence the different weights.

SW :D

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I did point this out myself to Gilo.

the key with this is to weigh in the laminates and resin before you produce the blade. Its that simple. (when making a new set)

They hand made them and did not weigh the resin or fabric before production hence the different weights.

SW :D

That would help make the total weight the same, but how would it stop the CoG (tip weight?) from moving around depending how the resin, carbon, air? ended up distributed inside the mould?

Cheeers

Paul

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In production the answer is Pre Preg carbon but.....

No one uses this to make paramotor blades with due to the cost. The next best thing is to vacume bag it all but that's a hasstle.

The truth is, I am 99.9% sure that NO ONE will be doing it the only way that works so your never going to get a perfect set.

SW :D

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In production the answer is Pre Preg carbon but.....

No one uses this to make paramotor blades with due to the cost. The next best thing is to vacume bag it all but that's a hasstle.

The truth is, I am 99.9% sure that NO ONE will be doing it the only way that works so your never going to get a perfect set.

SW :D

We agree, they cannot be made or repaired without checking the balance!

Hence it would be worth adding a cheap fleBay electronic scale to the kit and instruction to balance, as I'd say any repair would need a check and likely re-balance.

I got one for about £8 after my recent mid-air mishap. Normal repair then used the electronic balance to guide where to plug solder to make tip weight the same. So far so good...

Cheers

Paul

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