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Bailey V2 high hang harness arrangement.


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Does anyone know if there’s a knack to getting into this harness. I’m finding the high-hang swan neck bars very restrictive and I can’t lean forward at all. It seems that the risers are more easily clipped in before I get into the machine because it’s too tight to reach across my front to clip in.  
It’s totally different to the school’s modern low hang set up, but I’d much prefer to master it than sell it. It runs too well and I’m not really a 2 stroke fan. Or is there a mid/ low conversion available.  

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I have always assumed they are just different doglegs and interchangeable.... It may be worth doing some research or giving Paul Bailey a shout and asking if this is true.
You may struggle to obtain a "mid-style" set and I failed to manage to bend a new set for mine (Stainless is a bitch... needs more heat than I had // or a better bender) 
They are a pain to get in to (Hands behind your back like you are being handcuffed and drop in) and I always attach the wing before I clip in.
Not sure why you would want to "lean forward"... You wear it like a rucksack... Strapped together :) 
If you mean you cant get forward to stand with it on your back, it aint easy.. I lean the motor back and rock forward to get onto one knee then stand up from there.

 

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  • 2 months later...

Thanks Mark. 
I never saw your reply until today. 👍 . I flew it last week and couldn’t get into the seat, which was fine cos the engine failed so I had to land immediately anyway. 
im messing about with it now to set the harness so I can slide in . 

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2 minutes ago, paul simkin said:

couldn’t get into the seat

Too much slack on the leg straps.
Pull out the leg strap slack until you can feel a good bit of tension when you lift a knee (making sure you can still run)
Then when you are off the ground, lifting your knees will pull the seat board under your backside without the need to mess about.
If you miss judge and cant get in, reach around with your free hand until you feel the board and push it down while lifting your knees, it can be tricky but its way better than landing and having to start again :)
 

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You were dead right mark, I tightened up the straps and flew it twice today, got into the seat dead easy. The fuel pump was the cause of the failure last week, it’s fine now. It’s very comfortable. Landed very easily ( with a nice head wind) so overall I prefer it to the atom. Looking on the video I could see the risers /lines were putting a lot of pressure on the upper quadrants of the hoop on the takeoff run, (the wind was really pushing against it) but I fitted a vertical ali tube from the chassis up the centre of the upper quadrants and braced  them with that, making the hoop very stiff. It looks like the pressure would’ve deformed the hoop without that brace. Whether it would’ve folded and hit the prop I’m not sure but the hoop has been welded due a serious landing at some point. Thanks for all your advice , the hang angle, the bent chassis the bent swan arms etc. It’s all worked out good, cost peanuts, flies great. 29521AC6-F0BA-4F93-8C62-0363871AF7B8.jpeg.2a9594fd6cabcff32927decb11a7f604.jpegE935E647-2F82-41A2-ABA2-D0352C1A61B9.jpeg.f7201b25b484805605fdc624467de192.jpeg

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2 hours ago, paul simkin said:

I could see the risers /lines were putting a lot of pressure on the upper quadrants of the hoop on the takeoff run

I would think it would be fine with the double hoop but I like the way you are thinking :) 
Its very easy to damage your gear and props are expensive!
Lots of mods and bodges on my Baileys... Its a bit of a scruffy mess but it flies.

You may be hitting the power before you are upright if you are putting enough tension to flex the frame... I'm not saying that is a bad thing, whatever you are doing its getting you airborne and your frame is now stiff enough to take the grief of doing so.  

Fuel pumps, I have seen two fail on these, yours is the third so get a spare (GY6 fuel pump ebay £10 ish) there are a few types, pretty sure any of the generic ones will work but they have differing mount hole patterns. I have used two different types and they both worked fine. 

Glad to hear you are making it work and that you prefer it to the Atom... The Atom is a very nice machine but I think you need to wring the Atoms neck a little too hard to match the V2 which is more of a civilized plod :) 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Mark,  I missed you’re above reply somehow. 🤔. But now I need a bit more advice from you. No one I’ve met knows anything about these so I have no point of reference for comparison. My hang bars are the high swan neck type. They both have a fair bit of outward travel on the pip pins. The left side more than the right. They don’t come inwards from dead ahead at all. Just outwards. The pins are tight in the chassis and need the pip pushing to pull them back,  is this movement engineered in as some sort of weight shift or are the stainless bars worn.  the pip pins have no wear at all, not a mark on them. The chassis has no wear and the asymmetric outwards-only travel makes me think it’s engineered and not wear otherwise theyd  surely wear to travel inwards as well. I’m gonna try to attach a (poor quality) video, I’d appreciate an opinion or definitive answer. Before I weld up the bars and re-drill them. Thanks.........Paul 

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Cant open the MOV fie...
Mine rattle around like they are quite worn but I am personally unconcerned... As long as the pip pins cant come out I cant see anything exciting happening.

I was just looking for some stainless tubing in a more bendable alloy yesterday so I could make another "mid" set for another machine I now have that has the "high" bars like yours.
I think my last attempt was with 316 stainless (didn't go well, very tough stuff)... apparently 304 is more malleable so i might give that a go if I can find any with the right dimensions.
 

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Thanks Mark,  I bent mine straight after getting them cherry red but that’s very different to starting straight.  I considered using a solid 22mm bar with a slot machined out ( machined out with a hack saw or grinder )  and dropping that into the chassis holes and securing with the pip pins, with the slot up out of the chassis and then fitting a horizontal hang bar into the slot in the bar and pivoted on a 10mm bolt. Giving some weight shift. If the slot were deep enough it could be closed over the top to limit upward travel on the hang bars. Or making a copper- pipe pattern and getting the local fabricators to copy that in stainless. I can bend copper and it’s peanuts. But then I’d have to change the harness. 🤔. Something would be forgotten and I’d only remember it after deploying the reserve and thinking “ oh yes, I forgot that could happen” 

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10 hours ago, paul simkin said:

“ oh yes, I forgot that could happen” 

its a concern when the stakes are so high.
I would like to have a little more weight-shift but my doglegs now form part of my trike structure so I have even less weight shift than you.

With the "mid" bars, you have enough weight shift for course corrections so it might be worth trying a set of those if you can get hold of any or build some... Having said that, I have yet to look at the two differing harnesses to see if they are interchangeable, Ill have a look this weekend if its not flyable :) 

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This is my crappy YouTube channel, it’s got about 20 vids. This is the V2, 18stone nil wind take off. I think it’s a 175, if it’s a 150 then it is a miracle it got airborne.  But compared to my mate on the Atom at 18stone take off I’m up a lot easier.  There’s a comparison with a V-king and the uni 28 with a good head wind. 

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Mark Do you know how to tell if it’s a 150 or 175. ? The carb is only 24mm the inlet port only 20 so no point fitting the 30mm and manifold.  Mine has 8mm studs on the prop, apparently the earlier version has bolts. It’s post 2008. 

 

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I am pretty sure the standard larger GY6 stroke is 57.8mm 
With yours being a 61.3 stoker (+3.5) that would give you 158.63cc with a standard 57.4mm GY6 piston.

I cannot see it having a standard size piston because strokers are expensive and cylinder-piston sets cheap (I got a 63mm cylinder piston kit for £45 // A stroker crank would cost me three times that much) so I'm guessing either 60mm piston (+2.6mm) or a 61mm piston (+3.6mm)
The former would give you a 173.32cc (175cc)
The latter 179.15cc (180cc)

I have heard the v2's referred to as 180cc and 175cc so there may have been some mixing of piston sizes (or even stroker sizes) so there is no way to be sure of piston size until it needs a re-build.

Having said that, Ill put money on yours NOT being a 150cc :) 

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17 hours ago, paul simkin said:

The carb is only 24mm

The V5 only uses a CVK 26 so a 30mm would be wasted.
V2's are CVK 24 and mine seems to be able to deliver more than the machine can use so I wouldn't worry about it.
I think the V5's went to the CVK 26 so they could delete the auto choke/charge coils/battery by using the accelerator pump on the 26 to add fuel (pump the throttle before pull starting)

The standard CVK's have a 12v driven wax servo to close the "choke" after a short run time.

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