Pilot Paul Posted August 13, 2020 Share Posted August 13, 2020 Could anyone tell me the correct battery I need for my Bailey v4 please? It looks like the previous owner has taped two together and I’m struggling to find what I need to fit in the gap. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilot Paul Posted August 13, 2020 Author Share Posted August 13, 2020 Would this be suitable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackburn Mark Posted August 14, 2020 Share Posted August 14, 2020 18 hours ago, Pilot Paul said: correct battery I am going to assume not. Its a sealed lead acid with rather small terminals so might be a tad weak on the cranking amps or might not last long under such high discharge. If it cheap, it might be worth a punt for the science but be prepared for it to fail early in its life. How are you with electronics? Do you have a multimeter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilot Paul Posted August 14, 2020 Author Share Posted August 14, 2020 I’m crap with electronics! I do have a multimeter but have never used it Always prepared to learn new skills though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackburn Mark Posted August 14, 2020 Share Posted August 14, 2020 Okay, If you are feeling brave and have "some" diagnostic skills....(or willing to learn some new things)... it seems most people with old Baileys have opted for the Lipo option. They take a little more caring for than lead acids. The following are "Slow Boat from China" prices (ebay)£16 I use one of these£26(I couldn't find the exact model I use)This one is marked as a C60... not sure I believe that but as long as its at least a C20, that would give you 150 cranking Amps£3.... XT60 solder one of these to your battery leads You will need to cut the charging wire (one snipped wire doesn't sound so bad ) According to this drawing, its the yellow wire (I thought mine was white) I don't THINK either are being used on our machines. I could walk you through that if you chose to commit to the option.... you would basically need to confirm (with your meter) that there is no charge voltage getting to the battery when its running (you want 12.6v or whatever the battery is charged to and not the 14v or whatever the magneto is pumping out) It may seem a little complex but in practice, you are snipping one wire and soldering a new battery connector. Charging off the motor is not quite as nice as having it charge onboard but its no big deal and they are very lightweight compared to the lead acid batterie's. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParaPete Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 Awesome post , LiPro's are the go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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