cas_whitmore Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 The tab would take a wire to one side of your kill switch then a wire from the other side of the switch would have a wire going back down to some where on the engine as a ground wire . ( or it could get to ground through the throttle cable mine does ) check it's not getting a earth somehow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Moore Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Thnaks Cas. Yes, I have seen that grounding that tab kills the motor (if you are lucky enough to have one that runs!) I think I might take a chance and try the one you linked Cas. Did you see that listed as possible replacement for the Solo 210 coil? I am encouraged by the fact the manual says it doesn't need points? Might do the job? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cas_whitmore Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 dont think anything has been produced to use points in last 25/30 years ' might be wrong . Anyway your coil should it have fibre washers to isolate it from casing where the two bolts go through it . Mine did but as I said its miniplane ' I sure it's the same set up though . Could you check the coil with a meter ' never know might be dickie" cas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Moore Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 What amazes me is this price difference for what appears to be the same module? £113.75 here https://www.lsengineers.co.uk/ignition-module-stihl-part-no-1122-400-1314.html £12.99 here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ignition-Coil-Module-Fits-STIHL-066-046-MS460-MS650-MS660-new-1122-400-1314-/262550101972 $11.60 here https://www.amazon.com/Ignition-Module-Stihl-044MAG-Chainsaw/dp/B00SM8M3J8/ref=pd_sbs_86_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00SM8M3J8&pd_rd_r=Z2XSTE32VC0DC4KHQ4M6&pd_rd_w=xOt1s&pd_rd_wg=oJdvI&psc=1&refRID=Z2XSTE32VC0DC4KHQ4M6 How can that be? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Moore Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 The coil connections on mine go into captive threads in a plastic casing so are isolated from ground anyway, apart from the fact that I actually grounded to earth from the metal body. Maybe that's where I've gone wrong? I'll try it without grounding the body! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Moore Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Though thinking about it, the coil must have one connection to ground. The HT lead carries one pole and the ground is the engine casing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Moore Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Still not sparking. I think I may have the wrong coil. The Stihl chainsaw coil says it does not need points so maybe that will do the job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cas_whitmore Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Also try to get a pic on here ' somehow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Moore Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 OK, finally got it running with this chainsaw coil. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262550101972?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Bit of a fiddle to fit it in the housing. One screw was in the right place but I had to drill a hole in the casing for the other screw. And as I have discovered the air gap is indeed very critical. I got it running a couple of days back but then reinstalled the coil in such a way to make it more secure and then I had no spark. The lock nut for one screw is on the curve at the back of the casing as you tightened it changed the air gap. Not very secure really, so I put a little aluminium plate inside and outside to stop it moving. Fitted it and refitted it and with an air gap of less than 10 though got a spark and got it firing. It's still reluctant to start without priming with a little fuel straight into the spark plug hole but hopefully some carb tuning will sort that. When running the tickover is good and it picks up OK but I'm being very gentle with it as it's thought that it may not have been run in yet despite the age of it. It appears the advive is 25 to 1 fuel mix for the first 10 hours and then 50 to 1. The wire from the coil is the kill wire as I had to try it to stop the engine. I'm just waiting now for an ht lead splicer as I need to extend the plug cap. The lead on the chainsaw coil is short by a few inches. And I need to figure the wiring on the throttle for the kill switch. But it's looking hopeful as a runner. Thanks for the help and advice. One question/ Air filter. The one fitted was broken and a mate with a workshop said he thought it was too small to handle the engine airflow anyway. It was one of these. https://www.amazon.co.uk/RC-0790-Universal-Chrome-Filter/dp/B00062YO4A I don't know whether to just fit the same or fit a bigger one? What have other people got on a 210 cc motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Moore Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 OK, finally got it running with this chainsaw coil. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262550101972?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Bit of a fiddle to fit it in the housing. One screw was in the right place but I had to drill a hole in the casing for the other screw. And as I have discovered the air gap is indeed very critical. I got it running a couple of days back but then reinstalled the coil in such a way to make it more secure and then I had no spark. The lock nut for one screw is on the curve at the back of the casing as you tightened it changed the air gap. Not very secure really, so I put a little aluminium plate inside and outside to stop it moving. Fitted it and refitted it and with an air gap of less than 10 though got a spark and got it firing. It's still reluctant to start without priming with a little fuel straight into the spark plug hole but hopefully some carb tuning will sort that. When running the tickover is good and it picks up OK but I'm being very gentle with it as it's thought that it may not have been run in yet despite the age of it. It appears the advive is 25 to 1 fuel mix for the first 10 hours and then 50 to 1. The wire from the coil is the kill wire as I had to try it to stop the engine. I'm just waiting now for an ht lead splicer as I need to extend the plug cap. The lead on the chainsaw coil is short by a few inches. And I need to figure the wiring on the throttle for the kill switch. But it's looking hopeful as a runner. Thanks for the help and advice. One question/ Air filter. The one fitted was broken and a mate with a workshop said he thought it was too small to handle the engine airflow anyway. It was one of these. https://www.amazon.co.uk/RC-0790-Universal-Chrome-Filter/dp/B00062YO4A I don't know whether to just fit the same or fit a bigger one? What have other people got on a 210 cc motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Moore Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 (edited) Tuned the carb and it's running nicely and revs pic up smoothly. Doesn't want to start again easily unless I prime again which is a pain as I 'm not sure In could restart in flight. I've read that this can be to do with the pop off pressure in the carb but I'm reluctant to start messing with that. It involves bending the small fulcrum that opens the needle valve. Anybody have ideas why warm starting might be reluctant? Here's video of it running (well secured!) Stupid YouTube is showing the wrong image but it plays as Solko motor running? reposted it 3 times? You can skip my description of work I've done. Video of it running starts at 1m 20s so Edited March 28, 2017 by Bob Moore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 (edited) Quote http://www.footflyer.com/fix/motor/carburetor/walbro.htm " Carb leaks fuel when not running" - Float needle is bad or has crap stuck in it, or the float lever setting may be too high, or the float diaphragm is bad. " The fuel leaks back into the gas tank when it isn't running" - Bad fuel pump membrane, or an air leak in the fuel line at the carb Take a look at that. Float needles have a rubber tip to keep it tight, on old and used needles this might be gone, it's just a very tiny rubber layer. Buy a new one and the problems might go away. Edit: Nice Mirror dinghy btw, long time since I saw one sailing in Sweden. Fun stuff! Edited March 28, 2017 by Casper Cheering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dariuszk24 Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 (edited) looks like you have problem with needle valve may you repleace all membranes and needle valve but you need repleace also metering spring. best you can bay its from rowenacarb http://www.rowenacarbs.co.uk/ ring them cost few "peny"but worth it part no 98-192 no bending,no squizing no cuting-just repleace it no need eaven test pop off pressure after replace its spot on another problem is air filter (chines rubish)from your film its really airflow restrictor take it off and you see different glue on botom ring this filter somethimes peel off and bye bye propeller Spring - Metering Lever Edited March 28, 2017 by Dariuszk24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Moore Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 (edited) Thanks for the responses guys. I have already fitted a new carb service kit, pump membrane etc. when I did the refit as it hadn't been used for 20 years. But didn't replace the needle though did remove it and take a look and blow it through. I deliberately didn't mess with the carb too much beyond replacing the pump membrane and perishable items as it had been a runner before and was waiting to see how it behaved. Might be an idea now to replace the needle too and the fulcrum with the one in the kit as well. Today though I ran the motor for 15 mins and it restarted ok. I think the trick was blip the throttle before hitting the kill switch so there was some fuel in the pot for the next start. No air leaks either as I have already replaced all the pipe work and fuel filter. Thanks for the comment about the filter. I looked at loads online and went for that as it was similar to the one I took off. I plan to put a fail safe around it to prevent it falling off and hitting the prop. Thanks for the Mirror comments! Hadn't sailed a dinghy for 30 years, after 70,000 miles of yacht sailing! Great fun and cheap to keep and a good alternative hobby for those none flying days, of which there are many! Latest thing I'm trying to do is stop some of the vibration of the cage. I bought a new set of engine mounts, same stud size but 80 kgs shear strength. Only replaced the top one which was busted, but think it may be too firm compared to the Fresh Breeze one. hence not absorbing the engine vibration. I'm going to order the FreshBreeze one. But also attempted to test the prop balance. This is a four bladed wooden prop and had been in a damp garage for 20 years. Seems a little out of balance and it may be warped, I don't know how well it was stored? Going well so far though! Edited March 28, 2017 by Bob Moore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi k Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Bob weigh all the blades separately to see how much difference, and attach a piece of wire to your cage and use as a pointer guide, turn blades by hand to check for prop run out, blades are mean't to be stored a certain way but you may be lucky and find their Ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomarnold Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Hi Bob, funnily enough I have recently acquired exactly the same motor here in Sweden. In England I've been flying a Fresh Breeze Solo 210 paramotor for several years, but that one is still in my shed in Somerset. Now I'm living in Sweden and I have borrowed a motor which happens to be the same as yours! Has yours got a Walbro carb or a Tillotson? Mine has a Tillotson and I'm trying to find out the factory settings for the Hi and Lo screws to start out from. It fires up ok but won't accelerate, it just bogs down when I try to apply any throttle. If you want to discuss the motor or anything to do with flying it, just drop me a line. Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi k Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 1 hour ago, tomarnold said: Mine has a Tillotson and I'm trying to find out the factory settings for the Hi and Lo screws to start out from. It fires up ok but won't accelerate, it just bogs down when I try to apply any throttle. Tom. I'll answer that 1 for you Tom A Tillotson carb sett's are tighten up screws then L = min 1 1/4 -1 1/2, and H = 3/4 - 1 1/4 Hope this helps Kiwi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi k Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 3 minutes ago, kiwi k said: I'll answer that 1 for you Tom A Tillotson carb sett's are tighten up screws then L = min 1 1/4 -1 1/2, and H = 3/4 - 1 1/4 Hope this helps Kiwi. Tom if you unsure look here should be very helpful to you https://www.winderosa.com/Winderosa_Snow_Inst-tilltoson_hr.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomarnold Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Thank you! That is very helpful. Much more helpful than Fly Products who replied to my email just saying "We don't know"! Thanks, I'll have a go at tuning it when i get home... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi k Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 I only know as i got all the paperwork when i bought my Adventure A4 solo 210 engined Paramotor, Plus its all been highlighted in the book and a stick-it note on front of book with carb settings on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi k Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 3 minutes ago, tomarnold said: Thank you! That is very helpful. Much more helpful than Fly Products who replied to my email just saying "We don't know"! Thanks, I'll have a go at tuning it when i get home... All the info is out there but you have to know where to look , as normally older stuff can be hidden under other other categories , as you see the link is reference to snowmobile carbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Moore Posted March 29, 2017 Author Share Posted March 29, 2017 Hi Tom, I followed your ppl adventures on Facebook (jealous? Moi?) And adventures in Sweden too! And just saw the pics of the paramotor on Facebook. It does look very similar to mine except I have a 37 inch dia 4 bladed prop. I assume yours is bigger as it's two bladed? Mine is Fly Products (so it says on the cage anyway!) Tank is different too. Re the carb, mine is a Warbro 32 but I see the question has been answered. Re the prop Kiwi K. The construction is such that it is two sections of two laminated wooden blades that are clamped as a X when bolted into position. I made a crude balancer yesterday and it worked quite well checking the balance of each half. One was pretty much perfect, one was slightly heavy on one blade but barely a fraction of a gram at the tip would be all it needed to balance it Pretty much ok. Of course what I can't really tell is how much they may have warped or twisted in a damp garage. I think the cage vibration might be caused by my fitting a top flexible engine mount that is just too firm. I'm going to order the right one from FreshBreeze. Haven't changed the needle as yet but did fit a different and smaller inline fuel filter as the first one I fitted held a lot of air. I've put two or three litres of fuel through the motor now and it's running really well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi k Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Bob you should know any Solo 210 questions and i should have the answer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomarnold Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Yes, mine is a bit bigger i think. Pretty sure it's a 115cm prop. Just changed the fuel lines and cleaned and serviced the carb and now i can't get the damned thing to start! It fires up by doesn't idle, it just immediately dies. Will try again tomorrow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Moore Posted March 29, 2017 Author Share Posted March 29, 2017 (edited) Sounds like the slow running screw jet? Mine was quite critical. Try it screwed out a bit more maybe, then once running screw in and lean it till it picks up a little then back off a very little. If the high is too far out it also doesn't like it! I followed some online recommended settings for mine and they were way too far open. Though dying immediately sounds a bit like fuel starvation? And yes Kiwi mate, I know you have the answers! Edited March 29, 2017 by Bob Moore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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