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Car Rack Question!!


asquaddie
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Had a couple of morning flights with a new and improved car rack (Thule with a piece of wood).

On the way there and back the prop was spinning when I went over 30.

This is new to me because of the new motor with a clutch - so I've a dilemma

Do I tie the prop to the cage to stop it spinning or do I let it have a 'blast' and let it spin!!!!

Technical or simple answers would be very grateful.

Cheers

 

Edited by asquaddie
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I guess the main reason for using the rack is to keep the motor assembled, so I don't strip it down each time.

I think I will attached a bungie (somehow) to both props and try and stop the windmill effect :-)

This morning, I lost a prop bolt (was not yet assembled) with the vibrations on the journey!!!!  I guess it was OK with the other 5 :oops:

Cheers Simon

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The other one that I remember Simon reminding me of when I went to a Bac Rac was to put some sort of safety strap around the reserve in case of accidental deployment whilst moving. Dont want you resembling something from Santa Pod Raceway as you go off down the A39!

Needs  to be "obvious" so you remember to remove it before flying :oops: 

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Attaching the 'remove before flight' tag onto the tie/strap, which is holding the reserve.

At least then the tag is noticeable and flapping in the wind :-)

Maybe looking into this too deeply now :-) - just get a camper van, good excuse and would be a lot easier 

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I had a Bak Rak for my car whilst I was in Cyprus. They're cheaper, stronger & a bit smaller than the Thule 949's.

I have just bought another Bak Rak off eBay, now I'm back in the UK. I'm planning to make a copy of what I was using before.

I have just rubbed it down & given it an undercoat, I'll post a few more photo's when it's done in a couple of days. There is also a stainless version if you're richer than me!

I used a couple of spare glider lines to tie the props before, but I'll probably just take the prop off in the future as it takes 2 minutes to put it back on & I've already saved a load of time by turning up with a 95% assembled, fuelled up Paramotor!

Rav.jpg

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Arrrrr  Looks like my old car Rav 4 :-)  Lovely car

I got my rack years ago, so I just had to make a new shape platform to put my motor on.  Fits lovely now, but I don't do long journeys with it on.  

Also plan to use a bungie for the prop - just don't want the wear and tear on the bolts all the time (just lazy really :-)  )

It's just nice to leave the left over fuel in the motor - ready for the next time then :-)

Lovely car thou :-)

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 30 July 2016 at 6:08 PM, asquaddie said:

I guess the main reason for using the rack is to keep the motor assembled, so I don't strip it down each time.

I think I will attached a bungie (somehow) to both props and try and stop the windmill effect :-)

This morning, I lost a prop bolt (was not yet assembled) with the vibrations on the journey!!!!  I guess it was OK with the other 5 :oops:

Cheers Simon

This was my solution to the windmilling prop, with a fail safe of threading the starter handle through it

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

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The last few times I've been using a bungee (like your photo) - just not going through the handle.  Seems to work fine.  As Simon mentioned, you just need to be careful of the reserve.

Where is yours mounted, because mine came with it mounted on the right pocket, so now moving it to the front with a flight deck system.

Done just over 8 hours on the beast now - still happy :-)

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1 hour ago, asquaddie said:

Where is yours mounted, because mine came with it mounted on the right pocket, so now moving it to the front with a flight deck system.

Done just over 8 hours on the beast now - still happy :-)

Mine's side mounted. Just over an hour on mine so far...very pleased

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  • 6 months later...

Personally i am not a big fan of Back racks...   If your going to have to take the prop off and remove your reserve how much extra time does it take to put on the cage section??? 

Assembling your machine is a good way of spotting any small issues that may have arisen since you flew last...

To Me Back rack's put unnecessary strain on the chassis, cages,  You get your Nice new machine covered in road grime and salt this time of the year..  you have to drive at a sensible slow speed with them on the back, There will always be a Chance your going to get a nice big stone chip your £300-£600 Prop.

 

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Careful with the thule . They are not strong.  I made one and it broke off going along the motorway...looked in mirror to see paramotor sliding along road.

 

I have a custom build stainless backrac if anyone want it for say 150 squid. It has light bar and a welded on quick release system I built. YouTube paramotor car towbar and you'll find the video from me.

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True about static load, however bikes also stick out so the carrier is well within limits. I strap my paramotor down using straps which attach at shoulder height to the cage and run down forward and backward at an angle. This diminishes the torque load on the frame and the cage stand itself.

 

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3 minutes ago, Garry said:

After I've landed I just walk off the field and load it straight on, easy :-D

Garry, I have mine the other way round as Tony does. I considered both ways when I was fabricating it and It would be good to have it as yours so you could just plonk it down straight off your back, but I like to be able to use mine as a nice safe rig on which I can start the machine off my back to warm it up......so I do have suffer the inconvenience of putting it on by hand.

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I would like it the other way round too, because it is a real pain placing the motor on the board and then turning it round.

As Garry said above. You can just get under it and lift it off and place back on again. :-)

When I designed the board I thought I didn't want any part of the prop touching the two vertical bars or the horizontal bar.  Maybe that's why I am not a designer.

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