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Found 3 results

  1. Hey So in the process of rebuilding my Solo 210 (Nirvana Electric Paramotor) I've managed to drop the flywheel. The result of this was about half of the magnets popping off. Lucky they are not damaged and I should be able to epoxy them back on. My issue is the engine timing is based off the single non-magnet in the ring of magnets. Since they came off I don't know where the non-magnet was originally. I have struggled to find any technical information (beyond an exploded diagram) on this engine let alone the magneto. Does any one know where the non-magnet should be in the ring? The flywheel itself is keyed. I've attached some pictures below. Thanks
  2. You may have seen my long and tortuous thread about trying to get a Solo 210 I acquired to run properly, or more accurately restart after it had been run. (It had sat in someone's garage for 20 years) After wasting £200 on it I finally gave up. Bought an Adventure F3 that needed a starter motor and my old one fitted, had a few other little things to sort, engine mounts, fuel lines etc. but that paramotor starts, restarts and runs well. 48 inch prop. I also acquired another motor, a more recent Solo 210 unit with CDI ignition for free and have transplanted it into my original machine which had a 4 bladed 36 inch prop, lighter weight, smaller cage . Lo and behold I started it today, hand start, but only briefly as it has no prop on it at the moment. So here's the issue. The old motor has a mount with 6 screws for the 4 blade 36 inch prop. The motor I acquired for free has a boss with 4 bolts. It's looks like a hard job to switch the bosses (I'd need to switch both) so I hope to drill out 4 holes in the wooden boss to fit the new boss. I realise this is a risky procedure balance wise. Don't want to shell out lots of bucks as this motor hadn't been run for 8 years and as it was I spent £200+ trying to get the original working. Does anyone know a safe and reliable way to re-drill a prop for a different mount please. I just looked at some prop specialist web sites and it would cost more than this thing is worth to get them to do it.
  3. Advice wanted please! Getting desperate for ideas to sort this Solo 210 I acquired a couple of months back, which had been unused for 20 years, sat in someones garage. (You may have seen my original posts asking for parts advice etc. It arrived minus the coil.) Been paragliding 15+ years and looking to get into power flying. I couldn't source the original coil anymore but 2nd coil I fitted a Stihl chainsaw coil that went in ok with a bit of fiddling and I had a spark. This is a magneto coil, ie no points, no battery necessary. I cleaned the fuel tank, did some rewiring, new fuel pipes, fuel filter, serviced the carb with new parts (done in twice now) . Woo hoo it started. I've had the 4 bladed prop off, rubbed it down , re-varnished, balanced it too! Super, it starts and runs well when started cold, and runs beautifully , picks up well, revs well. BUT, stop it and leave it for 10 mins and it won't start on the button. It's electric start. You can crank it forever but fuel is not getting into the pot. Drop a bit of petrol into the spark plug hole it will fire run again OK. I have tested crankcase pressure, good. When you are cranking it the crankcase pressure driven fuel pump that is part of the carb is pumping fuel. Carb is clean, jets are clean, I've dismantled it several times now and blown it with my airline. And anyhow, when running it runs beautifully. Pop off pressure I thought, this is the bit that opens the fuel metering diaphram and allows fuel in. Yesterday I replaced the fuel metering spring. £3. This can have an effect on running if it's weak. It started OK this morning revved up OK. Ran it 10 mins and stopped it . Went back ten mins later and cranked it with the electric start, wouldn't start. Dropped a bit of fuel down the decompressor vacuum tube which goes straight into the carb inlet manifold. (Incidentally I have had the decompressor off too and checked it!) Started no trouble. (Sorry this becoming an essay but I have been working on this reluctance to start when hot prob for weeks now.) I checked Pop off pressure with my home made device seems to be 12 lbs per square inch which should be OK and this runs beautifully anyway? The video is it running after my latest change, ie metering spring. I intend to train on this machine when I 'm happy with it, but I would like a motor that will restart when I'm in the air so that I can shut down and restart. A new carb is £81 Warbro WB32. Some people have successfully used WB 37. I am reluctant to shell out £81 and find the problem still exists and in any case, I find it hard to believe there is anything fundamentally wrong with the carb. It's a lump of metal with a few holes drilled in it and some diaphrams. It's cost me £160 to get this running OK (I got it for free.) £81 if it worked would still be a cheap motor. SO, please has anyone else got any other ideas as I think I've covered all bases. (And please don't say buy a new £3000 - £4000 xyz motor!) I am considering making a secondary priming device that I can operate while in the air which will inject a little fuel into the inlet manifold via the decompressor tube. That would be a fiddle but should work. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=afx1ZrdxvHY&index=1&list=PLLdle7NDE_1ZJPsIze-5j_ATXkyc_j2uj
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