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paul simkin

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paul simkin last won the day on October 5

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  1. I’ll check it out thanks. It’s 62mm stroke ( best as I can determine with a vernier,
  2. Mark Do you know how to tell if it’s a 150 or 175. ? The carb is only 24mm the inlet port only 20 so no point fitting the 30mm and manifold. Mine has 8mm studs on the prop, apparently the earlier version has bolts. It’s post 2008.
  3. This is my crappy YouTube channel, it’s got about 20 vids. This is the V2, 18stone nil wind take off. I think it’s a 175, if it’s a 150 then it is a miracle it got airborne. But compared to my mate on the Atom at 18stone take off I’m up a lot easier. There’s a comparison with a V-king and the uni 28 with a good head wind.
  4. Thanks Mark, I bent mine straight after getting them cherry red but that’s very different to starting straight. I considered using a solid 22mm bar with a slot machined out ( machined out with a hack saw or grinder ) and dropping that into the chassis holes and securing with the pip pins, with the slot up out of the chassis and then fitting a horizontal hang bar into the slot in the bar and pivoted on a 10mm bolt. Giving some weight shift. If the slot were deep enough it could be closed over the top to limit upward travel on the hang bars. Or making a copper- pipe pattern and getting the local fabricators to copy that in stainless. I can bend copper and it’s peanuts. But then I’d have to change the harness. . Something would be forgotten and I’d only remember it after deploying the reserve and thinking “ oh yes, I forgot that could happen”
  5. Hi Mark, I missed you’re above reply somehow. . But now I need a bit more advice from you. No one I’ve met knows anything about these so I have no point of reference for comparison. My hang bars are the high swan neck type. They both have a fair bit of outward travel on the pip pins. The left side more than the right. They don’t come inwards from dead ahead at all. Just outwards. The pins are tight in the chassis and need the pip pushing to pull them back, is this movement engineered in as some sort of weight shift or are the stainless bars worn. the pip pins have no wear at all, not a mark on them. The chassis has no wear and the asymmetric outwards-only travel makes me think it’s engineered and not wear otherwise theyd surely wear to travel inwards as well. I’m gonna try to attach a (poor quality) video, I’d appreciate an opinion or definitive answer. Before I weld up the bars and re-drill them. Thanks.........Paul IMG_1871.MOV
  6. You were dead right mark, I tightened up the straps and flew it twice today, got into the seat dead easy. The fuel pump was the cause of the failure last week, it’s fine now. It’s very comfortable. Landed very easily ( with a nice head wind) so overall I prefer it to the atom. Looking on the video I could see the risers /lines were putting a lot of pressure on the upper quadrants of the hoop on the takeoff run, (the wind was really pushing against it) but I fitted a vertical ali tube from the chassis up the centre of the upper quadrants and braced them with that, making the hoop very stiff. It looks like the pressure would’ve deformed the hoop without that brace. Whether it would’ve folded and hit the prop I’m not sure but the hoop has been welded due a serious landing at some point. Thanks for all your advice , the hang angle, the bent chassis the bent swan arms etc. It’s all worked out good, cost peanuts, flies great.
  7. I’ll try that hanging off the beam later. Thanks Mark.
  8. Thanks Mark. I never saw your reply until today. . I flew it last week and couldn’t get into the seat, which was fine cos the engine failed so I had to land immediately anyway. im messing about with it now to set the harness so I can slide in .
  9. Does anyone know if there’s a knack to getting into this harness. I’m finding the high-hang swan neck bars very restrictive and I can’t lean forward at all. It seems that the risers are more easily clipped in before I get into the machine because it’s too tight to reach across my front to clip in. It’s totally different to the school’s modern low hang set up, but I’d much prefer to master it than sell it. It runs too well and I’m not really a 2 stroke fan. Or is there a mid/ low conversion available.
  10. Hoping someone can help with this. I’ve got a Bailey 175 V2 .it leans back too far on the hang test and the only adjustment is upto 90kg and over 90kg. It has the mid-type swan neck bars. The photos are with 87kg in the harness (which is my all up body weight give or take a couple of pounds, as you can see from the plumb-bob and protractor, it’s way back at 30 degrees, ( See edited update below) even adding way more weight doesn’t bring it up much. ive been advised by Ben at Membury not to fly it, ( I’m still under instruction) and I’m not going to disregard his opinion. I don’t want to sell it because it runs like a dream. The hoop has been banged at some point but the mounting frame is straight and there are no signs of any modifications to the chassis that could have disturbed the geometry, no dings or kinks in the frame. I could fit longer lower engine mounts to bring the bottom out, there’s plenty of space to the cage for prop clearance, but then the mounts would not be square on the frame and a stress would be set up on the ali mounting bosses unless I had tapered adaptors made up. Any advice would be appreciated. After seeing Mark’s comment it’s obviously not 30 degrees so I reset the whole hang test with my 90kg son in the seat and changed the photos. The hoop is distorted but the spirit level is measuring the prop flange angle from vertical. The hoop makes it look worse. It feels perfect when sat in it .
  11. Hi Adam, it has been common practice on car engines for many years now not to use keyed on pulleys for cranks and cams, often not even tapered. The crush of the special ‘torque to yield’ bolts holds them perfectly. With your pulley nut I’d tighten it to the correct torque, with a dot of medium strength thread lock and then tippex a couple of dots on the nut and the pulley as a quick check to see they haven’t moved in the future, and as a reference if you ever had to remove it away from the workshop for some reason and didn’t have a torque wrench handy, but then you’ll get all sorts of opinions about how applying thread lock will alter the torque applied to reach the same clamping force, like the “ greasing or not greasing a bolt “ debate. Regards. Paul.
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