doubledeez

Hey fellas, I'm back. Been a while since I last posted. I've been using Paraglider Dashboard for the last 4 years and I'm just starting to get into Gaggle app on the phone. I normally don't use the app while flying as I prefer Dashboard. After I land I'd usually open up Gaggle and just import the gpx igc file from Dashboard into gaggle and boom, it just works. However, My last flight on Mar 15, 2023 was automatically uploaded and input into Gaggle. I didn't not open Gaggle, I did not initiate record in Gaggle at all. Will gaggle go and grab a GPX igc file on it's own now? I'm dumbfounded as to how this occurred. I'm not upset, I'm kinda liking it. Just found it very strange my last flight was up'ped and in Gaggle without me having to import it. Cheers!!

cool! thanks for the numbers!

Neither had my instructor, Matt Minyard, that's why I elected to leave them off when we were going back together with it. Some "any-mouse" source claims that's a common reed cage (originally) manufactured by Yamaha motor corp. I don't know much about yamis since I own mostly Kawi stuff. But I know they've been known to over-engineer stuff...like getting shims and what not for the engine pan on a jet ski for proper drive line alignment.... Kawi uses a simple rubber coupling and that alignment sillyness is avoided all together, u just drop the motor in the hull and slide her into the drive coupler give it a turn and boom it falls right in, then you bolt it back down to the shock mounts and you are done...go ride. Although I would like to own a new superjet....things are sweet!

Maybe it's a paramotor thing. I'm new to paramotors.....not 2-strokes however.

never.

here's a breakdown pic

Just to clarify, since no one has a good word for what we are talking about in the earlier posts.....all reed cages have "stoppers." I am advocating for the removal of the SS "stiffeners" which rest on the reed petals themselves or you may end up with regrets.

that would be cool. thanks!

I'd like to keep using the chinese meter I have and just toggle the temp input between the CHT or EGT...with the press of a momentary switch. Seems like EGT is probably a better way to go than o2 sensor anyway..... maybe??

Cool beans! I'm looking at the EGT sensor on the Fly Henry web page. Do you know, by chance, the ohmic values of that sensor? I have a chinese meter that does cht, hourmeter, rpm.....it came with a temp probe for the head that reads in the higher resistance band and will not work with thermocouples that ohm in the 0-5 ohms range like my fluke meter probe and the probe (k type) I bought from here: http://thesensorconnection.com/cht-sensors/cht-sensors/cht-cylinder-head-temperature-12-and-14-mm

nice, very nice. thanks! how well did the o2 sens work out for ya on the thor 200?

Hello noddyc, can I ask where your are sampling your exhaust gas temp from? How far down the pipe? is your sensor in the exhaust stream or is it measuring the outside of the pipe surface temps? Just wondering. Kicking around the idea of installing an O2 sensor and I need specs of where the pipe is hot and where it is not. It's gonna be an old denso one wire sensor, the el cheapo brand for 11 bucks (found on older original mazda b2200 pickup trucks). Just bought a new one for testing off of amazon.....I used to have a 93' model of said pickup that went into open loop around 70k miles when the o2 sensor gave it up. Took a while for me to figure out what the heck was going on. funny story. Truck was running like crap, wouldn't produce enough power to pass a semi on I10 while pulling a jetski trailer....was actually falling back in the fast lane.....people were blowing the horn at me and getting pissed. I couldn't do anything....my truck just wouldn't go. That was a vacation trip to FL....got back home after the vacation and was so miffed at the truck as it would not go over 45mph by this point...a week later......put it in 1st gear and proceeded to burn the motor to the floor doing donuts in moms front yard.....then POW!!!! Something blew up under the hood, I could here it sounded like a french horn whoopie cushion under the hood. THere were some rubber exhaust recirculation hoses, 3 of them, that feed exhaust back into the intake cleaner......one blew up from.....TOO MUCH BACKPRESSURE......ah, lets look for a clogged exhaust.....sure enough...nothing coming from the tail pipe with the engine at idle. firgured I'd drop the cataletic, when I did the face of it looked like molten lava. Like that thing is supposed to be porous....it was not......it was a solid block of melted shit in there. started reading up on the net about it and that's when I learned all I ever wanted to know about o2 sensors, how they work, what happens when they go bad, and what not. So my truck had been running quite a while with a bad sensor that sent the computer into dump fuel mode which cooked the cataletic and caused it to melt down like chernobyl. So hollowed out cat, and new o2 sensor later and truck was back to running like a champ....don't know how....but that truck was bullet proof....tried several times to kill it.....it would not die. If you ever find one keep it, that lil motor is a battle tank. N'neeway, back to the O2, I've perfected the lean out on the fly mixture adjustment system (servo controlled) on the ole' 150 and now I'm just looking for a way to confirm on the fly that my settings are sound along with the rpm readings. Went up to 5k the other day, highest alt on record for me, had to lean her out about a 16th of a turn for every 1000 ft on the hi set to keep her pulling about 87-8600 rpms. this is a narrow band o2 sensor that reads dc out of 0.1-0.9vdc with ideal mixture rates at 0.45vdc. .9 is rich and 0.1 is lean. So with a mini volt meter...on the sensor readout leg you should be able to tell by voltage when a good mix is reached......in theory. thoughts??

I flew matt's new, out the box atom 80. It's a tough lil motor. But not ideal for me. I was grounded waiting for parts to come in for the 150 so Matt was letting me borrow gear until the stuff arrived. I flew it on my same wing, a 26 mojo pwr. I flew it on an evening with nil wind, dead calm, fwd launch. I will never ever try that again. I ran my ass off. I worked harder than any attempt ever to get off of the ground. I can only imagine someone who had never flown before trying to run it out......next to impossible. I got off the ground and flew around a bit but was so unimpressed by the power I didn't really enjoy the flight. Landed and told matt thanks but no thanks, I'll stick to the 150cc and up. I'm pretty athletic, 180 pounds...do all manner of water sports, that flight kicked my ass.

Karma, Addressing your power fade, That sounds catastrophic. If you were getting 9000 from that motor without slowly building into it by verifying plug color over time and working your way up from the 8200 range, I'd say you were probably too lean. I don't allow my motor to pull 9000 rpm climbs. The motor manufacturer stated to us the range for this motor is 8500-9000 peak rpms. I only ever see 9000 on a cold ground runup. And if I see more, I verify belt tension then go for that hi screw and open it a degree or two. 9000 is a no go in flight for me. If you are seeing that, well I can't say for sure because I didn't do the testing there.... But I'd check the cylinder walls with a bore scope for signs of scoring and ring drag. Mostly exhaust side. I do know one thing, if you are running the same oil "Castrol Power RS TTS 2T" you will get away with a lot more abuse than what we used to back in the day. I couldn't believe what I saw when I took the head off of my motor when I had the reed let go and hang up on the exhaust port. My motor was still running, and making power.....although low. With a completely fragged out top end. All I can say is the oil must have played a part. Shit must be made from magic beans or something. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZR1bF6ch4xz5QUxxoR0NnHspUUbTkEtw/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Kf7OR9cZB7kaMiy-2LmfJuOY8FNgouWc/view?usp=sharing

I'm still rocking the old rope starter. The flash spring doesn't work. And the recoil spring is still holding.(the original that broke at 20hrs where I had to bend another "hook" to grab the center spindle.) I've had to shorten the rope to pick up the slack but it's still enough to get a full pull when on my back. My most consistent starts are made by following these simple steps: 1. (cold start only)always visually prime carb with only 3 drops of fuel. "pull the air box and look down the throat" 2. pull the motor over slowly, short strokes a couple of times to get the mixture past the reeds and around the crank. 3. on the last slow pull when you feel the compression stroke go just over top dead center, return the pull rope handle fully against the pulley and prepare for ignition. 4.say a prayer 5.Pull swift and hard and if you are dialed in she should start and run. 6. She will probably just pop or even kick back. 7. Pull through slowly a couple more times then return handle to pulley, and this time crack throttle slighly. I like to hold my pollini throttle in my right hand and will alter grip position just for this starting tactic. You can place your bird finger under the throttle lever and squeeze the lever against it with the ring finger, that should give you just the right amount of cracked throttle opening. Pull hard and she'll start and run. Works every time for me.

The coils I have ohm the same. Both the original that came on the 2018 and the new for 2019 version that they sent: Coil- 1.8 ohms grounding wire to leg. 8.75kohms grounding wire to spark wire. or "Secondary" I could not find any markings on the newer coil to distinguish it from the older one. All stampings and markings were exactly the same. The only difference was the new coil had a shorter foot on one leg. As far as power fade. I experience that also. It has been consistent on several different carb settings so it leads me to believe it is normal and to be expected due to heat build up over time. My findings on fade: With my old carb settings I was getting peak 8500rpms for initial takeoff and climb then she would settle into 8300-8200 range after 45secs-1 minute of full throttle. I was seeing temps up to 417F before going to 6400 cruise rpm, allowing temps to fall back to 360-380F range and then hitting power again and she would usually peak at 8400 and then fall off to 8200 for another 30secs of power. If I'd idle down for 1 full minute temps would drop to 250-300F range and a true 8500rpm was then available again for another climb. I have since abandoned the factory recommendations on carb settings and I'm experimenting with "jetski tuning knowledge" And I'm now currently making a true 9000rpm on the ground on runup. 8800-8900-8700 on climbout which then settles into 8600 after a full 1 minute of climb. Peak temps are only slightly higher than previous recordings at lower rpm. I'm running a richer than recommended lo setting (1.5 out) for more fuel cooling when I come off of throttle to idle for 1 minute descends that put my cool down temps around 240F. On a 30 second climb at 8800-8700 rpm I only see 385F. Motor is running cool and strong. It's finally dialed in. But I had to fiddle with the Hi screw quite a bit to get these results. My guess is the fade you are seeing is normal. Not a coil issue. The cap also popped off of my spark wire. It's just a screw on plug cap that stabs a center spike into the plug wire. Stab that thing back in there and ziptie the piss out of the end cap to hold it tightly in place. Why they didn't put a tyewrap there to begin with is beyond me. But they left a lot for the owner to handle up on it seems. Just be careful removing the plug cap when you pull the plug to check color, (which is what I do after each and every flight). Use two hands, wait for the head temp to get below 150F so you don't burn yourself then with the meaty part of your right hand on the fins push the cap with your index and thumb while pulling with the other hand...and don't yank, make your right hand do most of the work pushing, not pulling with the left. As far as using a coil from another make and model....well, I wouldn't try it. But if it works out for you be sure to post it here. According to the spec docs on the eos website they "made" changes to the new coil that fixed problems with timing at higher rpms on the old coil that was causing heat problems......All I know is the old coil and new one look identical apart from the foot mod. How that changes spark timing? who knows. I can tell you what really fixed the heat issues.....losing that heat trap shroud.....yeah, that didn't help at all. DD

I don't think they are needed. I see no change at all with them out. Motor still running good. Just did a rebuild on the carb. The diaphragm was a little stretched after a full year of use, motor starts as easy now as it did when new. Making about 8600-8700 rpms max currently 125 prop. Still fine tuning carb after rebuild, after soft seating and visually watching lo and hi mixture set screws go into fuel chambers and seats, noticed the original reference points from bottomed out have changed by a few degrees. (screws are not pictured where they were before rebuild) So this is affecting my fine tuning a wee bit. Current settings: wx, temp 70f, humidity 78% baro 29.88 Lo 1 and 1/8 out. Hi 7/8 out. Don't really think this motor will make any more power than where I have it set. Belt is tensioned to specs and not slipping. Heat range is cruise 6400rpm 396f- , 1 minute climb at max power 417-430f. Thinking of going from br9hs to a br10hs to see if she'll run cooler temps, not diggin on the 430f. Already know my chinese temp probe won't tolerate any thing higher than 465f.

Everywhere we fly down here is treacherous. If I lived in Iowa I'd probably leave them in. But like I told Matt, I just didn't feel safe from another motor out. I don't trust them not to fail again. If you fly over plenty of grass lands I'd say leave them in and chance it. But if you are in an area like us with swamp, marsh, and lots of hardwood, between densely populated areas with very few bailouts.....well. You make the call. I got lucky on my first run. That luck won't last if I push it.

Shouldn't be an issue reusing gaskets. EOS has amended the service interval on the reeds. Instead of inspecting every 100hrs, they advise replacing at 50hrs.... It's in one of the downloadables on their website.

Yep it's been fun actually, tuning and working on her. It's not for most though. I'm a tinkerer by trade, and a bit of a staunch scientific method follower. I like to test and test and test till I know exactly how shit works. And then try to get optimum results. I just flew Galveston beach a lil bit ago before typing this. Motor still running well. wx was strange though and very misleading. it was as I've never seen it before over here. It was almost calm at surface, about 4-7mph winds...but as soon as you climbed to 100ft and above the wind was pumping. I know my wing flys exactly 25mph trims out, no bar. And I was parked after climbing to pattern alt, I was like uhh oh...this ain't good. So much for my mini xc I had planned to go meet the fellas down at west beach. so I got down lower and was able to make a little head way up and down the beach crabbing the whole time. Winds were directly onshore so that was good. Glad you guys appreciate the input, I like the feed back. I think the hard start issue was too rich on the low screw esp. since today was T-80F and H-86%. Spark pic agreed with assumptions. So after I flew for an hour I checked the plug and sure enough lots of oily carbon deposits and build up on intake side of plug on base of threads. Almost clean on opposite side of plug (exhaust side) and I was a wee bit lean on the Hi screw. So I tweaked both screws accordingly, lo to lean and hi to richen about 1 degree turn each. Lo and behold, she wants to start easy now. Peak rpms also showed making good power and gained a few more rpms from prior flight. Didn't fly it yet with those settings as I have to get ready for work. Maybe tomorrow if the wx holds. Later fellas.

The Moster honestly is probably your best bet at this point. I can't not in good faith recommend the motor I have. There are small issues that must be addressed before this engine is airworthy in my book. For instance, the reeds, I am currently running the original stock reeds without the stainless steel backings. I refuse to chance another one going through the motor again. The exhaust also has problems with the nuts at the flange for the silencer to pipe mating where they get loose and back off and will eventually depart the machine. I have them secured with aircraft safety wire now and they seem to be holding, although I did have to retighten and resafety them recently. How they got loose is beyond me. But you can hear it when the exhaust starts to leak so you know to check on it. Currently I'm having issues of hard starts. The motor used to be very easy to start cold and would restart easily when hot...before the failure and rebuild. The carb is tuned perfectly and the motor runs great when flying with the very same carb adjustment settings we had before the failure. I'm getting a beautiful plug picture as I check the plug after every other flight. The hard start issue I feel is related to a weaker than normal spark. We were sent a new coil with the rebuild parts and advised to change it and shim it accordingly. I feel the shim specs may be off as I can hold the plug in my hand and only receive a mild shock when pulling the rope through. Any other lawn mower type coil would normally knock you on your ass. So we may need to close the gaping and get the coil closer to the flywheel. Still have a few other things to try before that though. My work around is to remove the airbox before each flight, and by sight, verify the priming of the carb does not exceed 3 to 4 drops of fuel. Any more than this and it will flood the motor, the plug will be too wet for the weak spark to cross (new plug mind you) the gap and instead it shorts to the wet fuel and will not start at all unless you install a new dry plug. Then it fires right up with a fresh plug. So yeah, I'm still working the kinks out on cold starts. If you get a new one hopefully they have it factory tuned like it needs to be but we are working with an "A" model as I like to call it. And having to do our own R&D it seems. Also, I've yet to see claimed peak rpms for this motor. The best we've gotten thus far is around 8760 and that was on a cool dry day with current carb settings. Doing an immediate plug chop from 800 feet after a 1 minute climb proved to be slightly lean as there was not much color on a fresh plug that I had flown on for 1 hr. So I've since dialed back to where I'm seeing 8500-8600 rpms on climbouts and a peak temp of about 415-417f cht after a 1 min climb and 375f prolonged cruise @6300-6400rpm.. I'm suspect of the parajet prop that came with the motor which may be why we are seeing the lower than claimed rpms from EOS. The motor was originally sent to us from parajet with the wrong prop. We were advised not to run it hard or fly it until the new replacement prob arrived. The new prop looked like it was made for a 150cc type motor but had parajet markings on it. Most EOS motors I see have the Eos 150 placard on the blades. Mine says parajet. SO there's that. I feel they may have us running a higher pitch. Other than that it's been a joy to fly. It's like any 2 stroke out there though. You have to find what works and stick with it until you get it right. They all have issues. It just seems Vito has been at the game longer and have more of the bugs worked out. I will say this about the EOS though, it's very smooth as far as vibrations go, smoother than the mosters I've demo'd for sure. Good luck on deciding,. I'm sure I'll post more about it in the coming months as we get our summer peak tuning dialed in and iron out the hard starts issue. Cheers. DD

so wait, you had grit and sand in the throttle handle and it was hanging up? ok, yeah I can see that. I have the same throttle on my rig too. I have the same unit too, just different motor. Had my handle open working on a top secret modification while I was grounded waiting on parts. I'll share more of that later. Glad you got it squared away.

I'm not so sure the EOS FB page is being run by an affiliate of the actual company. I've gotten sketchy replies from same on fb messenger also. I didn't put much faith or stock in it. Luckily Matt has my back and knows the top folks up there in Austria and got me some real service from the top down. I would try to contact Parajet and get a good contact for EOS from them. The FB angle is only gonna disappoint. Good luck.

If I'm understanding your problem correctly, you have a change in rpm that you are not used to seeing at cruise? Like the rpm to maintain level flight at cruise is now higher that what it used to be? Because if this is indeed the case then you simply have a loose drive belt. That's what I had on my motor at 25hrs and it did this exact symptom....that and the peak rpm would occasionally spike 400-500 rpms higher than normal.

Update, Motor is back together and running. Doing break in cycles now. One more ground run break in cycle left to go then I can start flying it again. Doing same as before. 32:1 premix. Gonna run that for the first 6 hours then going to 50:1. Motor has new head, piston, cylinder, and new coil installed. Couldn't make out any real changes other than the one mounting foot on the coil was shortened on one side. Not sure the reasoning behind this. Maybe they thought chopping off a piece of the foot would allow easier removal without having to remove the flywheel?? That's not the case though, because you still must remove the flywheel to get it off and on. SO there's that. Both coils had stamped in Plastic "Mod 150." Being in aviation we often stamp components with a modification letter A,B,C....and so on so this confused me at first thinking they are just rehashing the same old coil....but the more I think about it 150 is probably designated for the model of engine it was designed for. So other than manufacture dates in print on the coil, the part numbers were also identical. On a different note.... They did send a completely new reed cage preassembled with the ss backing plates on the reeds. I elected to set that assembly aside for spare parts. They did not address the root cause of the problem. And I've already removed the ss plates from my original reed cage. So we are running the original reeds, which look fine....motor runs fine, exactly the same even....minus the ss plates. I don't feel safe flying this thing with those ticking time bombs in there just waiting to let go and frag my motor again. We do a lot of open marsh flying down here.... As a matter of fact we had actually just done a 12 mile mini cross country from Lydia to Cypremort Point which took us over open bay and plenty of Alligator infested Marshland, JUST the WEEKEND before, yes, TWO flights before....the motor cratered itself. How lucky right? So yeah, they didn't address the reed cage problem.....and I'm not running those reed backings. Done deal. More to come. Stay tuned I'll keep y'all posted.