doubledeez

Hey fellas, I'm back. Been a while since I last posted. I've been using Paraglider Dashboard for the last 4 years and I'm just starting to get into Gaggle app on the phone. I normally don't use the app while flying as I prefer Dashboard. After I land I'd usually open up Gaggle and just import the gpx igc file from Dashboard into gaggle and boom, it just works. However, My last flight on Mar 15, 2023 was automatically uploaded and input into Gaggle. I didn't not open Gaggle, I did not initiate record in Gaggle at all. Will gaggle go and grab a GPX igc file on it's own now? I'm dumbfounded as to how this occurred. I'm not upset, I'm kinda liking it. Just found it very strange my last flight was up'ped and in Gaggle without me having to import it. Cheers!!

cool! thanks for the numbers!

Neither had my instructor, Matt Minyard, that's why I elected to leave them off when we were going back together with it. Some "any-mouse" source claims that's a common reed cage (originally) manufactured by Yamaha motor corp. I don't know much about yamis since I own mostly Kawi stuff. But I know they've been known to over-engineer stuff...like getting shims and what not for the engine pan on a jet ski for proper drive line alignment.... Kawi uses a simple rubber coupling and that alignment sillyness is avoided all together, u just drop the motor in the hull and slide her into the drive coupler give it a turn and boom it falls right in, then you bolt it back down to the shock mounts and you are done...go ride. Although I would like to own a new superjet....things are sweet!

Maybe it's a paramotor thing. I'm new to paramotors.....not 2-strokes however.

never.

here's a breakdown pic

Just to clarify, since no one has a good word for what we are talking about in the earlier posts.....all reed cages have "stoppers." I am advocating for the removal of the SS "stiffeners" which rest on the reed petals themselves or you may end up with regrets.

that would be cool. thanks!

I'd like to keep using the chinese meter I have and just toggle the temp input between the CHT or EGT...with the press of a momentary switch. Seems like EGT is probably a better way to go than o2 sensor anyway..... maybe??

Cool beans! I'm looking at the EGT sensor on the Fly Henry web page. Do you know, by chance, the ohmic values of that sensor? I have a chinese meter that does cht, hourmeter, rpm.....it came with a temp probe for the head that reads in the higher resistance band and will not work with thermocouples that ohm in the 0-5 ohms range like my fluke meter probe and the probe (k type) I bought from here: http://thesensorconnection.com/cht-sensors/cht-sensors/cht-cylinder-head-temperature-12-and-14-mm

nice, very nice. thanks! how well did the o2 sens work out for ya on the thor 200?

Hello noddyc, can I ask where your are sampling your exhaust gas temp from? How far down the pipe? is your sensor in the exhaust stream or is it measuring the outside of the pipe surface temps? Just wondering. Kicking around the idea of installing an O2 sensor and I need specs of where the pipe is hot and where it is not. It's gonna be an old denso one wire sensor, the el cheapo brand for 11 bucks (found on older original mazda b2200 pickup trucks). Just bought a new one for testing off of amazon.....I used to have a 93' model of said pickup that went into open loop around 70k miles when the o2 sensor gave it up. Took a while for me to figure out what the heck was going on. funny story. Truck was running like crap, wouldn't produce enough power to pass a semi on I10 while pulling a jetski trailer....was actually falling back in the fast lane.....people were blowing the horn at me and getting pissed. I couldn't do anything....my truck just wouldn't go. That was a vacation trip to FL....got back home after the vacation and was so miffed at the truck as it would not go over 45mph by this point...a week later......put it in 1st gear and proceeded to burn the motor to the floor doing donuts in moms front yard.....then POW!!!! Something blew up under the hood, I could here it sounded like a french horn whoopie cushion under the hood. THere were some rubber exhaust recirculation hoses, 3 of them, that feed exhaust back into the intake cleaner......one blew up from.....TOO MUCH BACKPRESSURE......ah, lets look for a clogged exhaust.....sure enough...nothing coming from the tail pipe with the engine at idle. firgured I'd drop the cataletic, when I did the face of it looked like molten lava. Like that thing is supposed to be porous....it was not......it was a solid block of melted shit in there. started reading up on the net about it and that's when I learned all I ever wanted to know about o2 sensors, how they work, what happens when they go bad, and what not. So my truck had been running quite a while with a bad sensor that sent the computer into dump fuel mode which cooked the cataletic and caused it to melt down like chernobyl. So hollowed out cat, and new o2 sensor later and truck was back to running like a champ....don't know how....but that truck was bullet proof....tried several times to kill it.....it would not die. If you ever find one keep it, that lil motor is a battle tank. N'neeway, back to the O2, I've perfected the lean out on the fly mixture adjustment system (servo controlled) on the ole' 150 and now I'm just looking for a way to confirm on the fly that my settings are sound along with the rpm readings. Went up to 5k the other day, highest alt on record for me, had to lean her out about a 16th of a turn for every 1000 ft on the hi set to keep her pulling about 87-8600 rpms. this is a narrow band o2 sensor that reads dc out of 0.1-0.9vdc with ideal mixture rates at 0.45vdc. .9 is rich and 0.1 is lean. So with a mini volt meter...on the sensor readout leg you should be able to tell by voltage when a good mix is reached......in theory. thoughts??

I flew matt's new, out the box atom 80. It's a tough lil motor. But not ideal for me. I was grounded waiting for parts to come in for the 150 so Matt was letting me borrow gear until the stuff arrived. I flew it on my same wing, a 26 mojo pwr. I flew it on an evening with nil wind, dead calm, fwd launch. I will never ever try that again. I ran my ass off. I worked harder than any attempt ever to get off of the ground. I can only imagine someone who had never flown before trying to run it out......next to impossible. I got off the ground and flew around a bit but was so unimpressed by the power I didn't really enjoy the flight. Landed and told matt thanks but no thanks, I'll stick to the 150cc and up. I'm pretty athletic, 180 pounds...do all manner of water sports, that flight kicked my ass.

Karma, Addressing your power fade, That sounds catastrophic. If you were getting 9000 from that motor without slowly building into it by verifying plug color over time and working your way up from the 8200 range, I'd say you were probably too lean. I don't allow my motor to pull 9000 rpm climbs. The motor manufacturer stated to us the range for this motor is 8500-9000 peak rpms. I only ever see 9000 on a cold ground runup. And if I see more, I verify belt tension then go for that hi screw and open it a degree or two. 9000 is a no go in flight for me. If you are seeing that, well I can't say for sure because I didn't do the testing there.... But I'd check the cylinder walls with a bore scope for signs of scoring and ring drag. Mostly exhaust side. I do know one thing, if you are running the same oil "Castrol Power RS TTS 2T" you will get away with a lot more abuse than what we used to back in the day. I couldn't believe what I saw when I took the head off of my motor when I had the reed let go and hang up on the exhaust port. My motor was still running, and making power.....although low. With a completely fragged out top end. All I can say is the oil must have played a part. Shit must be made from magic beans or something. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZR1bF6ch4xz5QUxxoR0NnHspUUbTkEtw/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Kf7OR9cZB7kaMiy-2LmfJuOY8FNgouWc/view?usp=sharing

I'm still rocking the old rope starter. The flash spring doesn't work. And the recoil spring is still holding.(the original that broke at 20hrs where I had to bend another "hook" to grab the center spindle.) I've had to shorten the rope to pick up the slack but it's still enough to get a full pull when on my back. My most consistent starts are made by following these simple steps: 1. (cold start only)always visually prime carb with only 3 drops of fuel. "pull the air box and look down the throat" 2. pull the motor over slowly, short strokes a couple of times to get the mixture past the reeds and around the crank. 3. on the last slow pull when you feel the compression stroke go just over top dead center, return the pull rope handle fully against the pulley and prepare for ignition. 4.say a prayer 5.Pull swift and hard and if you are dialed in she should start and run. 6. She will probably just pop or even kick back. 7. Pull through slowly a couple more times then return handle to pulley, and this time crack throttle slighly. I like to hold my pollini throttle in my right hand and will alter grip position just for this starting tactic. You can place your bird finger under the throttle lever and squeeze the lever against it with the ring finger, that should give you just the right amount of cracked throttle opening. Pull hard and she'll start and run. Works every time for me.