fuzzybabybunny

I've got an EN-B Ozone Spyder 26m2. I'm still trying to get a handle on the numeric value of the wind speed in knots I'm able to launch in, reason being that I need to read a wind report of a launch site that might be an hour away. Anything from 5kt and below is obviously ok. Unfortunately I don't have a wind meter (that I trust) to gauge speed when I'm at a site. I bought a cheap wind meter on eBay before and I would go to a site and it would read 7-8kt but I would still get dragged around. Am I really *this* bad at ground handling or is the wind meter just off by like 200%? It gets fuzzy around 10-15kt. Can I fly or not? Here's the wind forecast of where I'm at now: https://drive.google.com/a/victorlinphoto.com/file/d/0B7frWuNellxaNEpyQlRIREZtRW8/view?usp=drivesdk My wing is flapping about pretty wildly and it's not seemingly possible to get it into a wall. If I leave it unattended on the ground it'll start to blow away on its own. The Spyder is an ultralight wing which means it is really easy to launch in light winds. Unfortunately it seems this also means that it flies up too easily in stronger winds. As soon as it gets blown up 15 degrees or so (on its own, no tug on the A's) I'm getting dragged along, so I pull the brakes and run after it. It comes down, flies up again on its own, I pull on the brakes and run after it again, and the cycle repeats. But the forecast says it's less than 15kt? More like 13kt. In fact, other forecasts say it's only 6kt with 9kt gusts in my area (Windy app). https://drive.google.com/a/victorlinphoto.com/file/d/0B7frWuNellxaOElFaGttY3BBbkU/view?usp=drivesdk So what's your numeric criteria for wind speed? And what wing? What do you think *my* criteria should be?

I can't for the life of me find any travel insurance companies that cover paramotoring. There appears to be at least some that cover UK citzens, but I'm a US citizen and I can't find any for myself. I tried World Nomads but paramotoring is not covered while paragliding and hang gliding are. DogTag explicitly says paramotoring is not covered despite them saying they cover "Extreme+ sports." IMO this is a BIG problem for me. If I can't get insurance then I'm not flying, period. I hhaven't lived in the US for over two years and don't plan on going back anytime soon.

Wow, figuring out communications equipment sure is an exercise in frustration. My main requirements are thus: - can use my own earbuds - can have voice communications via Bluetooth - can hook up to a standard UHF / VHF radio - excellent noise cancellation for engine and wind noise - Bluetooth can pair and have voice communications with other brands of intercoms After searching around a lot, it seems that *EVERYTHING* hinges on getting the Sena SR10. It is the link between the radio unit and whatever Bluetooth intercom unit you choose (it pairs with any Bluetooth device supporting HFP (hands-free-profile)).. To me, this is extremely frustrating because I think such a device could be cut out entirely (and made more reliable) if only the Bluetooth intercom unit had an audio jack for both input and output. Many devices only have an AUX port for input audio. The Sena 20S, for example, only does phone calls via Bluetooth. You cannot plug your phone into the 20S' AUX jack, turn off bluetooth, and make calls. The AUX port is only an input for "MP3 devices." Anyway I made a spreadsheet. https://docs.google.com/a/victorlinphoto.com/spreadsheets/d/1JqJ086TvawWA4GAb0e_poPH3DbG1QI-lhDmoh16Ly3Y/edit?usp=sharing The cheap Chinese intercoms suffer from a lack of information. Do they support bluetooth connections across different brands? Do they support linking up with the Sena SR10? Many of them have the microphone and headphone on the same wire, which is ridiculous. Basically, the Chinese brands are a complete crapshoot.

I made a video about priming and starting the motor. I should mention that when you do your quick hard tug to have on about 1/3 throttle to fire it up. Also, I find that if I flood it, tip it on its side for five seconds, then put it back vertical and I see fuel drip out the air box, the next hard yank with 1/3 throttle is guaranteed to start it. If I tip it over and no fuel drips out when it goes back vertical, there is a good chance it won't start. Lemme know if you have more questions. And here is someone else's setup for pushing in that decompression button while the unit is on your back. The vertical metal plate is held there at the bottom by a large metal worm hose clamp wrapped around the clutch housing (the part on the engine with the four holes where you can see inside to the spinning clutch wheel). https://drive.google.com/a/victorlinphoto.com/file/d/0B7frWuNellxaZENmLXhzaWptUzg/view?usp=drivesdk

Just out of curiosity, why do you want an electric start?

So after doing some research, Q Bond and RapidFix look to be the same thing. They are both a two part liquid and filling powder adhesive with the same chemistry. Checking the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for Q Bond, it appears the primary ingredient (99%) is ethyl cyanoacrylate. You know it as normal super glue. Super glue forms a polymer when it comes into contact with water, mostly water molecules on the surface of the material you're adhering. And yes, it's gasoline resistant. The filling powder is a bit more mysterious, but I will guess that it is simply a form of powdered ceramic or metal. It adds 3-dimensional structure as well as more holding power, stiffness, and filling of nooks and crannies compared to just the liquid portion. It's basically like a micro-cement, and yes, both parts are very resistant to gasoline. You can make your own Q Bond or RapidFix by buying super glue and using it with fine beach sand, powdered iron, or powdered ceramic. Just did the overnight submersion test and there were no leaks of any kind and the material showed no weakening at all. I consider the fuel tank fully repaired.

I've got the BaoFeng GT-3 but no microphone or headset yet. It seems that a lot of people like to use wireless bluetooth motorcycle comms like the Sena, so I've got some questions. - I travel a lot internationally so a radio like the GT-3 is the most flexible in terms of communicating with people. Chances are, I just use a frequency that the local pilots use. - Sometimes local pilots only use a Sena. In this case, will highly-rated Sena alternatives like this VeeTop be able to communicate with Sena users? https://www.amazon.com/Veetop-Resistant-Bluetooth-Motorcycle-Interphone/dp/B016MAE7GO/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1481702825&sr=8-8&keywords=bluetooth+motorcycle - If I want to use my GT-3 with the Sena, I *have* to also buy the Sena SR10 in addition to something like a 20S, right? - Is there a cheaper alternative to this with the same excellent noise-cancelling microphone of the Sena?

Naw, hot glue is Ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA) which is not chemically resistant to petrol. http://www.rxplastics.com.au/resources/RXChemicalResistanceGuide.pdf Even if you were to use a proper plastic welding kit you have to select the correct type of plastic for fuel because not all plastic is the same. Petrol will dissolve one and not the other. The adhesive that I've used is chemically inert to petrol.

What I'm trying to understand is the mechanism of failure here. If I start the motor with no throttle and no prop... How does idling the engine with no prop hurt it, especially an engine with a clutch since the clutch is freewheeling the drive shaft anyway with or without the prop installed. Heck, how does running the engine at even 4000 rpm with no load hurt the engine?

Just wanted to share this. I had multiple cracks in my plastic fuel tank where the brass fittings screw into the plastic. Gasoline would rush out pretty quick as soon as my paramotor would go horizontal (like laying it on its side in the car) and of course the petrol smell sucked. I tried Goop adhesive but petrol ate through it. It would eat through silicon as well. A guy at the auto shop recommended me this: https://www.google.com.au/search?q=rapid+fix+adhesive I've used it on my tank and so far it seems to be holding up. No leaks. I'm currently in the process of doing a prolonged submersion test and I'll let you guys know how it holds up. It was either this or pay Backbone $200 to mail me a new fuel tank or pay someone to do plastic welding. I think this adhesive was the best option. Sets and hardens in less than 10 seconds.

IMO 12.5kg isn't light at all for an 80cc engine. The Top 80 would be lighter. I have an EOS 100 Booster on order and it should arrive in a month. Unfortunately I won't have much of a chance to review it for another few months since I leave for Japan immediately afterwards for skiing :(. I feel like the EOS Booster really needs more reviews and public commentary on it. I compiled a lot of info into a spreadsheet (click on the 'motors' tab) https://docs.google.com/a/victorlinphoto.com/spreadsheets/d/1swxq55tYbEulgpbCrJqLH_xKmHp4Es3NDnaYcZExTPQ/edit?usp=drivesdk

I bought an EOS Booster 100 with the SkyMax Expedition frame. I'll absolutely follow up with initial and long term reviews and measurements once it arrives in a month or so since, well, I frankly think it needs them. I basically feel like a guinea pig. It was between the Booster and the Air Conception Nitro, but in the end I decided on an uncompromisingly-lightweight and uncompromisingly-compact package for my travels. The entire SkyMax frame and fuel bag can be broken down and chucked in a small soft bag. The AC frame can't.

Has anyone paramotored in Japan? I'm going there skiing in a month or so and I need to decide whether or not to paramotor there as well. If so, I have to look into renting a car, among other things. Where do I start to get English info on flying in Japan?

I want to be able to shut off my motor in midair and then fire it back up again with near-100% reliability after whatever amount of time (could be a few minutes to hours afterwards). Would having an e-start versus pull-start affect the reliability or ease of starting back up in the air?

I'm going to be getting this frame soon because there's nothing like it for travelling. The frame will come apart and break down into a standard soft bag if fitted with nuts and bolts instead of rivets. The fuel bag rolls up easily for travel as well. And SkyMax will make the frame for any engine. I checked two of them out on the ground in Melbourne and they seem solidly put together. Sergei with SkyMax on Facebook has been very responsive to my questions.

Well, after having my engine get denied by the airline and deciding that I never, ever, ever want that to happen again, I think it's best that I simply tear apart the entire engine to pieces if I want to safely transport it via airline. Are these what I would need? - socket set with torque wrench - allen key set - full arrangement of gaskets for the motor and carb since they will be replaced each time the engine comes apart - caliper to measure gasket thickness (is this absolutely required?) Is this about it?

What would you say is an average petrol burn rate for your Moster Pluses?

I don't really feel like waiting another half year for the Nitro Clutch model to come out. I want to get a new frame now with the intention of getting an AC engine. - If I get the Nitro without the clutch now, will the Nitro with clutch have the same mounting hole dimensions so I could swap in the clutch model later? - Will the prop turn in the opposite direction on the clutch model vs the direct drive model? If so, I would probably also have to completely replace my swing arms, right?

I'm on the fence between getting an Air Conception direct drive Nitro 200 with electric start (with no pull start even installed) or waiting half a year or so for the clutched version of the Nitro 200 to come out. The upsides to the current Nitro is that it's lighter and simpler without a clutch and it's available NOW to fly. Can people who don't fly with a clutch outline any examples of when you really wished you had a clutch?

Thanks. I've got a buddy in New Zealand that should be able to help. I can't do the aircraft parts route. Qantas requires me to fill out a form before I arrive at the airport declaring that I've flushed the engine and they need to approve it. I then need to declare the engine at check-in. Failure to do so could result in huge fines because petrol is considered dangerous goods if someone realized it was an engine (like through x-ray) and I hadn't declared it. I think if I were in the USA I could even face jail time...

Well, I figure I should write this up as a learning experience for myself and others. It's been a very trying experience that I don't think I ever want to repeat. I've been flying in New Zealand and I needed to travel to Melbourne, Australia. My kit is a Backbone with a ROS 125 engine. ------ Backbone chassis, cage, harness and tank weighs 12kg. 90cm tall, 50cm wide, 40cm deep (requires a large box for a lawnmower to fit - or about 200 liters!) ------ ROS 125 engine weighs 14kg. 60cm wide, 45cm tall, 33cm thick ------ Four days before my scheduled flight I pulled the engine off the frame, took off the air box, flushed the fuel system, took apart all the fuel hoses, opened the throttle body, and opened the carb and allowed it all to dry and be open to the air for four days. I took paper towels and wiped everything. I washed the fuel tank over and over with hot water and detergent. I washed all the hoses with water and soap. Flushed the primer bulb and fuel filter. After three days of airing I: Wrapped plastic wrap all around the throttle body (airbox detached). Wrapped the entire engine in an entire roll of paper towel. Wrapped the entire engine in an entire roll of plastic cling wrap. Put the entire engine in two layers of thick plastic garbage bags. Put the fuel lines and bulb and filter in two layers of ziploc bags. Put it all into a bag with lots and lots of padding. ---- Shipping ---- All prices are in NZD. The fuel tank and air box I shipped in the same massive box as the chassis and harness. Cost was about $170 just to Melbourne (the cardboard itself was already 6kg + 12kg equipment @ $9/kg shipped). The collapsed cage wouldn't fit in the box so I had to put it in a ski bag as check-in baggage. The engine was just in its own separate heavily padded backpack. Qantas is the only airline that allows internal combustion engines. 30kg is included for baggage, but I had to buy an extra 5kg @ $13(!) / kg = $65 for the motor and ski bag and ski equipment. ---- Shit ---- And this is where it all went wrong. I declared my engine at the check-in and had all the paperwork ready. I asked the person if people have checked engines before and they say it happens sometimes. The moment I take the engine out of the bag the person goes "WHOA that's a HUGE engine" and I'm just thinking "crap crap crap crap crap." She has me open the thick plastic garbage bags to do a sniff test and she immediately say that it smells. It smells heavily of *plastic bag* but the attendant simply says it smells. Calls another attendant over and she says she smells something too. Finally a third attendant comes over but takes the engine partly out of the garbage bag because "the plastic bag smell was too strong." Unfortunately he smells "a bit" of petrol and points to the propeller mount. Anyway, the engine gets denied passage, I had to pay $10 to store it for a friend to pick up, and I hopped on the flight with my remaining luggage. I lost the $65 I paid for excess baggage because it's nonrefundable and I never got to use it. If I had not had a friend to pick it up for me, I would have had to forfeit my entire ticket and deal with the added complexity of arranging more accommodation for additional days and transportation to that accommodation with a long ski bag (most taxis don't take ski bags). --- Aftermath --- So now I'm in Melbourne with my engine stuck in another country with a friend who doesn't know anything about engines or paramotors. --- Lessons Learned --- If you try to take your engine as checked baggage on a flight, it's a roll of the dice. You might get through sometimes, but that *one* time you have issues your logistical complexities and cost will increase exponentially. Fuel smell is really hard to get rid of 100%. Less than a drop of fuel spread out over the entire surface of an engine and I bet it would still be detectable by smell. Attendants don't know what fuel should smell like. The first two people got it completely confused with the strong smell of the plastic bag and they would have erroneously denied passage to it even if all I had was a grapefruit in the bag. Putting it in multiple sealed plastic bags just helps concentrate any little bit of leftover odor that might be hanging around. If I *had* to check it on a flight again, I would have packed the hoses and bulb and filter in a completely separate container. Or just thrown them out. And I would have taken the engine completely out of the bag for them to sniff because I didn't smell a thing when I had finished cleaning the engine before wrapping it up. But the best bet is just to ship the engine separately. There's too much at stake when you try to check an engine on a flight with you. Having a really light kit that breaks down really compact (NOT a lawnmower box) will save you so, so much elbow grease, sweat, aggravation, and costs.

Does anyone have any long-term reviews of the EOS 100 Booster engine? I like it because it's lighter and more powerful than the Top 80, but someone told me that some dealers have dropped the EOS engine over reliability issues.

So gasoline won't dissolve hot glue? Is hot glue polypropylene or something equally as inert to gasoline?

I have a crack in the fuel tank at the top where my brass fuel line fittings screw in. Every time I bend down to grab something fuel leaks out, mostly onto my harness. If I transport the motor with fuel in the tank the sloshing around leaks fuel all over the place. I can either by a new Backbone fuel tank from Italy for $150 USD or try to repair it myself? I've tried Amazing Goop (a kind of silicone sealant) but petrol just eats through the stuff. Anything good that will: - bond whatever plastic the tank is made from - bond the brass fittings to the plastic - be inert to petrol?

Wow, parachutal stalls sure do suck.