willygofar

Do you have any photographs of the spark plug, have you tested the plug to determine the cause of the defect, are we correct no spark? Any electrode and/or tip erosion prior to the stoppage? What should the gap be, and what is it post stoppage?

Hi Simon... Not all is lost.... some members have learnt about carb's... and some may reflect on importance of finding an actual faults! Carbs are not a diy task! To everyone, one of the best books to buy for the apprentice is fundamentals of motor vehicle technology ( the red cover version) by VAW HILLIER. get it on ebay for a couple of £'s... Covers carbs in detail.

I get same message displayed, yet it also posts...

Worth every penny to sample to oil and understand what wear metals are present to confirm current engine wear/engine life position.

thank you.

Hello, Only advice at this point is STOP- and definitely don't start replacing a carb when it may not be that. This could simply be an air leak/gasket problem not visible to the naked/untrained eye. You are stuck if the manufacturer is ignoring you, but ask them: 1. The model of carb fitted: 2. any low speed/high speed air screw adjustments they make over the standard setup: 3. any jet size change they undertake/the jest sizes 4. get the manufacturers manual - follow there setup. You are at a point where you have a choice, get someone who is an expert look at it, or, disaster will follow. The problem you have is a simple one here, rich mixture (over fuel) washes cylinder bores and will scrap engine, and lean mixture runs hot, and will scrap engine. Stop using it now. In my profession, i normally chemically analise the oil to determine engine condition, wear, and narrow defects, I can put you in touch with the chemist we use if that assists. I appreciate you are miles away, but you have a stark choice, get an expert to look at it, don't use it, or use it and scrap the engine. PS, if not running at idle, may be lean of rich at idle, and that condition will manifest through entire engine operating range. Help if i can, but the next steps are a choice for you now. Willy Gofar.... or not with a faulty carb! cheers,

Hello, Only advice at this point is STOP- and definitely don't start replacing a carb when it may not be that. This could simply be an air leak/gasket problem not visible to the naked/untrained eye. You are stuck if the manufacturer is ignoring you, but ask them: 1. The model of carb fitted: 2. any low speed/high speed air screw adjustments they make over the standard setup: 3. any jet size change they undertake/the jest sizes 4. get the manufacturers manual - follow there setup. You are at a point where you have a choice, get someone who is an expert look at it, or, disaster will follow. The problem you have is a simple one here, rich mixture (over fuel) washes cylinder bores and will scrap engine, and lean mixture runs hot, and will scrap engine. Stop using it now. In my profession, i normally chemically analise the oil to determine engine condition, wear, and narrow defects, I can put you in touch with the chemist we use if that assists. I appreciate you are miles away, but you have a stark choice, get an expert to look at it, don't use it, or use it and scrap the engine. PS, if not running at idle, may be lean of rich at idle, and that condition will manifest through entire engine operating range. Help if i can, but the next steps are a choice for you now. Willy Gofar.... or not with a faulty carb! cheers,

Morning, Do you have the exact carb model number/the manual, i did not see you had checked the float level, float valve operation, or air leak/air ingress. Can you send the manual it to me? I realise there is some mockery to my suggestion of a systematic approach.... but it is the only approach to use... If you can pm me, i will assist all i can. If you want me to strip the carb, i will do, and teach you what you need to know at the same time. Can you get a gasket/service kit for the carb, as for the cost, it is worth replcing all the gaskets etc. thanks, I am based in Shropshire.

Chaps, What the dickens are you all up to, it is no help to this member to say, it could be, or it could be, or 99% of the time its not.... What i needed here is a systematic diagnostic approach, and base any diagnosis on evidence, not "could be's": A carburettor is the simplest piece of technology around, start with the basic questions: 1. get a carburettor manual for the exact model, the carb manufacturer web site is where you start. 2. check operation of float chamber valve; 2.a check float level; 3. check all jets, using air to clean and not jet cleaners; 4. check for contaminates; 5. clean as needed; 6. check air filter, clean as required. do not run with it removed, it will run lean; reassemble, all new gaskets; if you are competent, re-use gaskets and use fluid (wd40) to check for leaks when running 7. set air screw as manufacturer/bailey specific advise, number of turns from stop (in). check "o" ring to air screw if fitted, and do not over tighten against alloy case/base, it will damage unit. 8. if you are skilled enough, connect a vacuum gauge, and use this to confirm most efficient fuel burn (aka mixture) 9. check plug, visually, and by way of replacement with new to confirm any fault. 10. Importantly, avoid taking advice from those who do not have the pre-requisite knowledge of carburettors/operation, as you may well end up with a lean mixture and heat damage, or rich mixture, washing lubrication from the cylinder wall and destroying lubrication properties of the engine oil. As if you are stuck, if i can assist, i will.

Chaps, If is of any assistance, both myself and my partner have just trained using an APCO Lift, (M) stunning as far as i can see, so much so, i bought one. Weight range 100-160kg all up. I do like the comment "need four hours to qualify".... you are either competent, or not.... no "qualification needed"! If you are looking at the thor 200, look at the Minari 180, less weight, similar output, less onerous manufacturer maintenance schedule for the engine.

All, New to Paramotors, and having read the forums suggesting Bailey had poor customer service, I contemplated, as often, many are quick to criticise with no good reason. I thus telephoned Bailey and, on getting their answerphone, I left a message. A week later, having not received any response, I emailed via the address on their web site. That was three weeks ago, and no reply to date. The evidence thus speaks for itself, and, obviously I that is the level of service before buying, what can one expect afterwards. I see another member is experiencing the same, and he has bought a machine. Next, and for all members’ amusement, we visited a Midlands based training organisation, and on arrival found a gentleman nailing some roof cladding onto the side of what we can call the club room with a screwdriver head. It comes to pass he is the senior instructor, and is keen to tell us we need to sign up to their £1100.00 course, which will teach us paragliding first, we can joint the BHPA, and get a paragliding licence then we can learn paramotoring, and we can buy our own equipment to train on… Apparently, we have to be qualified paragliders before we can learn paramotoring at extra cost of course….. I must observe that some people set their stall out clearly to take as much money of any potential trainee at the earliest opportunity. Read what you wish into this, but I have read the AAIB accident report which details a training school using a glider with a minimum weight far above the weight of the trainee, and the trainee dies during the towing activity of the school, with the tow rope below the minimum length. Needless to say, we sourced our training from another trainer, and the standard, quality, and un-bias approach of the trainer was outstanding. Perhaps the training school we first spoke with have never heard of an air navigation order, and indeed seem unable to document their claim that paragliding must come first!!

Hello all, newbie here... Presently beginning my Paramotor training with www.axbsports.com Looking forward, does anyone fly in the Shropshire (Shifnal) area? thanks, Willy Gofar