Henrik_Y

I always hold them both, the tip steering acts before the brakes anyway and if you pull so far that the brakes gets involved, well... then you obviously needs them too. The Speedster was my very first reflex glider and all reflex gliders are not the same so asked Ozone about it. Some brands says big NO for using brakes while trimmed out but not the Speedster. This is the answer I got from them : "You can use standard brakes with trimmer 75% open. The last bit its ok to use brake handles as well but its more sensitive setting and in turbulent conditions it might cause a collapse. You can use brake handles with tst together with trimmer max open. Max open trimmer is not such a big risk but you CAN NOT use brake standard handles with full speed system - this is the biggest danger. I hope you enjoy your Speedster 19!"

[youtubevideo] [/youtubevideo] The Easy 100 engine with only 9h is up for sale if anyones interested, a great engine that I'm very happy with but for my flying style I want something bigger. It's like cars and motorcycles, you get used to it and want's more Very fuel efficient engine too, runs at 0,7l/10km with my Speedster 19m².

I think fuel/distance is a better measurement as we can go from 30-65km/h with todays gliders and the speed makes a big difference to fuel/time but not much on fuel/distance. I measured my Easy 100 to around 0.7-0.8l/10km on my speedster 19m at 95kg hook in. My previous engine which where a Radne 120 used about 1l/10km with an Ozone Buzz 23m. I think that 1l/10km is a pretty average figure so if you're close to that you don't need to worry.

This one is my all time favourite [youtubevideo] [/youtubevideo]And this one where you can feel the speed [youtubevideo] [/youtubevideo]

I have the same engine and mine revs around 8500-9000rpm, and that is calculated from helmet cam video. I can zoom in on the sound bar and count the propeller, every time a prop blade passes it makes a sound. I count them divided by 2(2 bladed prop), then I have the prop rpm and can then get the engine rpm knowing the reduction. Don't know how accurate it is but I think it's close, the video I have is captured at -8°C so the prop has thicker air to dig into and the glider fly a little slower and I run the engine a little rich and with 4% oil as it's breaking in. So at a warm summer day I think it could make around 9500rpm as the specifications says.

Velcro straps to keep the cage together.

A little flying with the new version. [youtubevideo] [/youtubevideo]

Did my first test flight yesterday with the new design and I can only say wow. Hugh difference, few small details I could fix but overall it flew great. Almost no torque steer at all, no tilt shifting and getting into the harness easy without kicking or using hands.

If you try to turn against the torque steering effect it could end up something like this. Some paramotors has more effect then others and it also depends on other factors how prone the gear are to this kind of reaction. But if the glider turns noticeably from torque steering then you should be careful. [youtubevideo] [/youtubevideo]

I know, found it through google and thought I should revive it with the videos I found. Here's Scarlett Mini which is under development and is made for human aviation so it's a lot more reliable then the Moki and those RC plane engines. http://vernermotor.eu/engines/scarlett-mini-3/ http://vernermotor.eu/engines/scarlett-mini-5/

Pagojet [youtubevideo] [/youtubevideo][youtubevideo] [/youtubevideo]I think the normal 1 cyl 2 strokes has the best performance for paramotor but if I would get a radial it would be a 4-stroke like the Moki as the sound and feeling would be the biggest reason to have a radial. [youtubevideo] [/youtubevideo]

Made a little video of the first version. [youtubevideo] [/youtubevideo]

I've been very busy this summer and autumn so not much time for this but soon it will be ready to fly I hope. Version 2.0 The main differences is the swing arms, I took after the new technology which I wasn't so aware of before I tried my first build. The pivot point is in line with the center of the trust(in line with the prop center). On my first design the arms where pushed upwards when throttling, and if stoppers where used it torque steered quite heavy. So on this one I looked at miniplane and others with the "new" swingarm design with the pivot point and the carbines offset. The cage is only two parts for fast and easy set up, inspired by the Skyrunner.

From my experience the glider may horse shoe if you use both A's if the glider is laid out in a straight line and not like triangle. I only use the inner A's when launching both forwards and backwards. I've seen pilots having problems with horse shoeing and told them to use only the inner A's and the glider launched perfectly, but one guy had only single A's and he's glider horse shoed and he got a line in the prop. So gliders with single A's need more care when laying them out so you get a triangular shape so that the center launches before the tips with good margin.

Haven't flown it much as I just got the right propeller, and not been able to fly with that one yet. But from the 40min I got with it from the first test flight I think it's good. You can put the reserve on either side and you got two pulleys one in front and an other set higher up at the back. I'm looking at building a new cage though, now as I tested what worked and what needs some mods. It works but if it can be made better I feel the urge to do so. I don't really need to take it down in such small pieces for transporting so will be looking at two cage halves and higher joints for the swingarms, so my current inspiration is like a mix of the miniplane frame with the skyrunner cage.

I pulled the nipples from old scrap carbs at a chainsaw workshop, and they had the primer bulb too.

You simply bypass the air pulse pump membrane which can get damaged if primed with a bulb on the fuel hose without pushing the pop of valve. Needs some tweaking with the balance, and the prop was a bit steep so need to get an other one and to bad cause it was nice Couldn't get the engine up in revs so barely climbed on full throttle, that may also be the cause of "heavy" torque steer. I'm used to a Nirvana Colibri with no torque steer at all so don't know if it's much though.

It's about 5cm.

Finally got a propeller! Ordered one for almost three months ago I've been waiting and struggling and never got what I ordered. Ordered a Helix but after some misunderstandings on the way between the dealers I got a wooden prop but thought okay it's a prop at least and I can finally fly(after 1,5 months) and it's cheaper and I can keep it as a spare. But it was broken in the transport, cracked right through 1dm from the tip. Contacted DHL and Vittorazi which been ordered to send it to me directly by my local dealers dealer, I contacted my dealer and thought it was sorted and the dealer told me a new Helix was on it's way. A month later I asked for the shipping number so I could track it and see if it was lost or waiting somewhere, guess what... I got a printscreen on the ship log from the first broken propeller with the message "you should have it by now". A few mails later I gave them one week to deliver, no answer so after a week I told them not straight but between the lines to go f' them self's and pulled out of the deal. So I got a new Nirvana prop instead from a friend which seems to work really good. And it could be better with the "N" which also stands for "Nosedive" I've been test running it today and it works well and I will fly it as soon as I can.

Thanks! I wish that I had a garage, then I wouldn't have to dig out my tools and equipment underneath the snow The welding was done at a real workshop though where I could borrow a solid flat workbench and an AC/DC-TIG, but the most of the other things has been done under the blue sky in my backyard. Making the net, it's actually easy and so much cheaper then buying it and you can also get whatever color you want and I thought red would look nice with the green and also match the red on the harness and the engine. Dry weight with reserve but without prop, tank and electronics was 24,8kg so I guess it will be around 27-28kg complete. I haven't thought anything about making it light, and the swing arms are made from forged iron so they weigh almost a kilo alone. But I think that anything under 30kg is good with reserve, battery and electric starter.

Hello! I've had a cheap radne and unknown older rig for my first paramotor then got a Nirvana Colibri and over time I learned what I wanted and wasn't completely satisfied even though the Nirvana is an awesome paramotor with a great and slimmed design and well thought functions. So I started sketching and thought about building my own as I'm a welder and also had some school work in CAD so it started there. I'm interested in Acro and flying small race gliders and I'm a light weight pilot(65kg) so the engine needed to have a low center of gravity and be mounted as close as possible to me. The Vittorazi Easy 100 seemed like the right one so started the designing from that one. When I got my Nirvana sold I started to build the frame and see how it was coming along before buying the engine and harness. I also made the net myself learning it from youtube. Been working on it for a few months and now I'm just waiting for the propeller. Coming more pics when it's completed. I removed this button and convertid it just like the carbs on Nirvana. The arms are forged from iron to withstand the forces from hard flying and twists, a bit heavier but definitely worth it.

One material difference between PG or PPG wing use to be that PPG wings are heavier to not get worn out as fast under heavier load and they usually have thicker lines and bulky risers with trimmers. Most new PG wings have those smaller risers which are half the width to save both weight and drag so the PPG gliders with the thicker lines and risers has more drag in the air and that's one thing that might make them less efficient. But as long as you're not into serious hike and fly or free flight XC competitions then it should be fine.

If you're new to paragliding then you might consider something calmer then a GTX or Speedster, maybe a MacPara Muse with the trimmer risers. They are great beginner gliders that you can grow with, great for free flight and motor and pretty fast too for it's category and it's also very easy to launch. Don't know what the GTX are but the Speedster is classed EN-C from 24m and up so it's not really for beginners. I'm a light(65kg) pilot so I got the Speedster 19 and only done two flights so far and those where towing free flights in pretty strong thermic conditions. I think it felt good with good glide and my intention was using it for free flying too and I definitely will as it's very agile and fun and you can thermal with tight turns(depending on size). They say the speedster is slower but that's when cruising straight with hands of, but going around corners and turn fast is where it makes up for it's name. I put my bet on the speedster as the best allround and most fun glider and that's why I bought it myself.