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Hann__

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Hann__ last won the day on May 21

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About Hann__

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  1. Since being furloughed for the last 7 or so weeks i`ve been getting up at 5 or 6 in the morning whether i`ve got something to do or not. I`m in my fifties and haven`t got much time left - i don`t want to waste it!
  2. Got a second post-lockdown flight tonight. First one was yesterday, a 2.75 hour XC covering 75 miles. Contacted the farmer today for another, he said yes but wanted to close the gates and for me to be off the field at 9.... It was a bit gusty here all day and what with the high temps, baking sun and taking off an hour or so earlier (to be back by 8:40) i thought i was going to be in for a jolty first couple of hours but it was actually very smooth for almost the whole flight once above about 1500` - even over the large forested areas i have to fly over. Wind wasn`t low enough for a classic XC - about 8/9 mph aloft - but still managed just over 20mph into wind and covered 70 miles. Slow out, fast back..
  3. Yeah, in theory a knackered little end would perhaps give 1 or 2 `thou play before it made itself heard, but to affect the port timing to any significant degree it`d have to have 2 or 3mm or more, and with that amount of play the engine would be making a hell of a racket.... Also, would retarded port timing necessarily make it overheat to this extent..? The little-end on my Moster can be heard, it`s probably been like that for 200+ hours - a lot of two strokes are prone to it. When i was younger and a fledgling motor bicyclist i was obsessed with the bloody little end bearing noise on my `bikes - i`d change them regularly and they`d sound great for fifty miles then go back to rattling. It`s a 2T `characteristic`.
  4. Yeah OK........never heard of port timing being affected by a worn little-end bearing!!!!
  5. The primary cause of that failure was a lean mixture, the piston has severely overheated. The little-end bearing was a secondary victim to that condition. "I had only increased the low and high speed mixture settings on previous flight yesterday as we are coming into our cooler months" Sure you didn`t lean it out by mistake?
  6. There are videos out there of PPG`s doing 70, 80, 90mph + with a significant tailwind so it`s perfectly feasable to fly in strong wind. I probably wouldn`t fly if the wind was 60mph at surface level, though... Personally i think twice if the wind aloft is greater than 10mph - not because it`s any more risky or turbulent but due to the type of flying i do - XC`s of 2 - 3 hours, i find crawling along at anything less than 20mph a little tedious, unless of course i haven`t flown for a few weeks and then i will just accept that i won`t be going very far and i`ll probably opt for some high altitude stuff instead. "If you can`t get by, go high"..
  7. They`d make an excellent water landing recovery system - you`d end up floating on the water in what looks like a giant inflatable chair. Could only be bettered if an automatic tray popped out from a folded position and served you with a G`n`T whilst reclining in a nonchalant splendour bobbing up and down on the water awaiting recovery.
  8. Didn`t you make a trike for your motor a couple of years back, or is this one for another one?
  9. They say that this lockdown is affecting peoples mental health, here`s an example. Odd.
  10. Well done, your wa**er character is spot-on.
  11. Hmmm, i`ve been thinking the same. Something just doesn`t add up here......
  12. Hann__

    Boo hoo

    ......at least we`re avoiding those lively springtime thermals. Last April was a very good flying month for me, this year would have been, too........
  13. Patrick, I can't tell by your posts if you're being obtuse, sarcastic or attempting humour. Are you flying during this period or not?
  14. Inside the carburetor Is a small mesh gauze To provide basic Filtering - i bet that it is partially blocked with fluff..
  15. I`ve had that pull start not retracting thing on my Moster over the years and have had the start mechanism off a few times to fettle it... How old is your motor - classic or more modern? Like you, i`ve had to do that jiggle where you pull the pull start handle out a tad (and get that noise) then release quickly to try and encourage the cord to get pulled back. Back in the early days Vittorazi issued a kit to fix this problem consisting of a plastic/ptfe washer which fitted between the cord drum and starter cage and which was designed to reduce the friction of the cord drum against the cage. This worked on mine for a while until the vibration and fretting from the engine vibration wore the washers` diameter down and it caused more friction/sticking when it slid out of position. I finally cured it by actually screwing the plastic washer in place (to the starter cage) and it`s been fine for a couple of years now. Also, don`t be tempted to oil the recoil spring - it just causes stiction and exacerbates the problem. Unwind the spring, clean it but install it back with no lube. Basically, just do everything necessary to eliminate all sources of friction in the starter system - does the cord have a straight a pull out of the starter as possible? Is your frame pulley in good shape? Cord not catching on harness etc? The `decompressor` is simply a drilling in the cylinder wall half way up between the exhaust port and the top of the cylinder and exits in the exhaust port itself. In effect it bleeds off compression pressure to the exhaust when starting (when the engine is turning over slowly) but has little to no effect when the engine fires and is at normal running speeds. Maintenence just involves making sure that it is clear - use a steel rod or suitably-sized drill bit and poke it through the hole.. If your engine exhibits unusually high compression only occasionally then it`s probably not this decomp. drilling - they would tend to be either blocked....or not.
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